The Replicant!
Replicant, center line
Lurking above the townsite of Banff are 3 tough ice routes. From left to right, they are:
Terminator, the Replicant ,and Sea of Vapors.
On our second try, Jess R and I tagged a dream of a route. I have been obsessing over it for over a decade. It was so amazing and I will be stoked on it for a long time to come. Conditions, weather, and stoke all came together this time for a great day in Banff. The approach went on forever. The avy danger was non-factor, thank god. It is steep and wanders up and over many features. It is nice to have a boot track, but it will blow over with the wind and you will wallow in some places up high. The 1st pitch was hollow, hooky, bouldery, and sketch. The 2nd is steep and sustained. the 3rd was so long and I got so tired, I stopped to belay after 30 meters. It was tough to follow Jesses pitch and launch into another 5+ lead. Jess then led the last short stretch to the top. I cant remember being so tired from an ice climb. The exposure was tremendous. We felt like we had just done something amazing, and we are so excited many hours later. We pulled in the night before and went right after it, revenging a trip for it a month prior. Yehaa! Cant thank Jim at Pro Mt. Sports for taking the time to get me the right gear!
We would have had better climbing shots, but the belays are tucked into tiny caves behind the icicles. Now for some pics!
Me on p1
Me on p1
Jess on p2
Jess swinging to the top
Fear in my eyes and nose
ON RAPPEL!
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About
My name is Wayne Wallace . I am a 48 y/o Union Carpenter that is very passionate about the great sport of climbing and the beauty of nature. Originally from Portland, Oregon, I currently live in Seattle. This site is an extension of an ongoing journal that I have kept my entire climbing career. I hope you enjoy and are inspired to do the same.
I realize that climbing is a self-indulgent sport and will not pretend it is otherwise. I will also add that I have enjoyed the positive impact that the beauty and depth of experience the sport provides in the lives of myself and others..
….So back to the self indulgence, view my complete profile and career highlights.
I am a fan of lightweight gear, here is where I get it:
Good job, well done.
You guys are amazing, I am so glad that I am on yoiur website and get you emails to view this.
Right on Wayne ! This reminds me of doing this route back in the mid 90s. It was in FAT.
Did the route with a friend then came back a couple days later an did it free solo.
Fun Place !
[...] I would load some more pics, and finish the story of the trip. We were so tired from Replicant that we took a rest day and (next day after that) went to Bull [...]