Waynes' site

Welcome to my online climbing journal

Oregon Climbing

Link to my favorite Oregon Pages
Beta: – Find The New I-rock Topo!
Portland
Rock
Beacon
Beacon Rock Stories   Oregon Page
Welcome to my Oregon extreme climbing page. This  is where I learned to climb. I have a deep romance to the place as a result
Oregon has a very distinct edge of adventure. Though it may be an aquired taste, those who enjoy it can reap great rewards. Be careful here though , The rock isnt always great.
Always carry extra gear to get down.
This is a page from                  Oregon Access Page  My Favorite Oregon Adventures:
Trout Creek
Turkey Monster
Rabbit Ears
Steins Pillar
St Peters Dome
Monkey Face
Abraxas- the Monument
Picnic Lunch Wall
Ice Climbing in the George (When and if)
Mt. Hood:
The Black Spider- Picture to the right—>
it is a 1000′Norwand
Illumination Rock- The best mixed climbing on the west coast. Period  SW Ridge in summer. SE Butt in summer
Steele Cliff -mt Hood
Razor Blade Pinnacle
Lamberson Butte
Wolf Rock –Jeez!
Opal Rock, vast potential
The North cirque of Thielsen is INCREDIBLE!
Beacon-Close enough to Oregon
Oregon Pinnacles Page
Still think there’s no climbing in Oregon?                St Peters Dome bit:
It was June of 94, right in the middle of my divorce. I went on a series of near suicidal climbing trips to test my mortality. An avalanche ridden solo on Johanesburg, an80 foot unbelayed fall off Wind mt. .Eventually a solo of St Peters dome was the only success on the trilogy of trauma. The Dome was a great climb. Finding the start and good anchors was a challenge. When I got to the start ledge I was greeted by a selection of railroad spikes . They came in handy for the belay and one of my first aid placement. Working my way up on bugaboos exclusively, I was convinced for a long time that I was off route. There were no pin scars  to be seen. I later realized that an entire layer of rock had worn off since the last ascent in the 70s. Watching the blocks shift as I pounded, I could see how this happened. After a short free finish to the crux pitch, I found the belay sings rotted off the bolts and sitting on the ledge with the rap ring still through it. The traverse was exposed yet easy . The final pitch was difficult to find and very loose, When the angle eased off it became a foot thick carpet of moss. I tunneled under it for holds until it could support my weight. The summit was exhilarating and a forest had grown there that wasn’t in the old time photos I had seen. The register was a fascinating history of  those who dared the venture. As time wore on, I copied all the entries and enjoyed this amazing and exclusive summit . The descent was uneventful until I heard voices in the forest across from me. It seemed Bud Young was leading a party on the Mystery Trail. What an unlikely party we had at the saddle. Truly a bright spot in a difficult part of my life.
Part of the new Mazama Annual Journal. I hope to post a link to the whole thing.     Update On St.Peters Dome!!The Big SPD got its (approx,) 20th Ascent!!Here is the Trip Report on Cascade Climbers!       Dave Jensen Photo Of SPD        The Black Dagger          Right before Christmas in 2005 The Columbia River George became windy and cold enough to freeze its many waterfalls. One of the unclimbed prizes was a route behind Ainsworth state park. It  had seen many strong attempts, including one where Bill Price and I reached within 30 feet of the top.
During the brief 05 cold spell I looked at the route through binoculars, only to see Marcus Donaldson about to finnally be the first to succeed on the amazing route.
That left only one unclimbed route to do: The Black Dagger
(photo on right).
I rushed back to Portland to tell my friend Lane Brown of our new plan. It included him buying new ropes , and us leaving at 4:00 am to try this extremely steep and exposed water course. As you can see the icecicles do not reach the bottom of the cliff. In complete darkness I led up the loose rock and moss to the right . The way left evidence of previous attempts both to the right and straight on. A steep mixed traverse allowed me to reach the ice proper . With Lane an I committed now , we stuggled up its overhangs and busted away the many smaller icecicles that impeded progress. Most waterfall ice climbs are tucked away in corners or gullies. The Dagger is out on a prow, offering a steep and tremendously exposed position. 3 wild  pitches left us feeling like the climb had given us a tough go but at the top we found the easy looking finish to be very tiring.
Reaching the top was so much more than a consolation for missing out on Ainsworth. We both agreed it was perhaps the best ice either of us had climbed. Our joy was cut short however on our last rappel down when one of Lanes new ropes got stuck. Going with our new-found luck though , He got it back days later when the pillars melted away.
Lane confided when he took the picture , that he may not have been willing to try this route if he had previously seen it!
    Home                  Oregon has a surprising amount of adventure climbing. As well as sport climbing. It is conveniently located between other great states for climbing. Often overlooked as a result, it does make a great place to live and play. Enjoy Oregon !!

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May 2, 2010 Posted by | Old Waynessite | 1 Comment

The Northern Pickets

Northern Pickets Page
Certainly the most brutal and committing range in the Cascade range, The Northern Pickets epitomize the wilderness mountain experience.
Sounds Perfect!
After two trys in 04 and 05, Josh Kaplan and I finally were able to traverse the entire Northern Picket Range along its summit ridge. This epic journey was captured well in this-The NW Mountain Journal   -Article. Thanks to Gary Yngve on his editing job
The Savage Attempt -2004
The next year we were successful in an epic 6 day push, completing the first ever summit ridge traverse  of the Northern Picket Range.Josh Kaplans Original Cascadeclimbers. Trip Report-2005
Great Ski Link
My own experiences with this range started in the toughest year of my life, 1994. I had planned to go with my friend Richard to tackle the North Butt of Fury. I instead cut off my middle finger at work. It had to wait a year, and I had to get through an ugly divorce. We eventually headed into Fury though the next year. It seems you have to be tough to even get in there. I wanted to go lightweight on the 5 days we planned for it. I remmember being dissapointed in the weight of my pack, the annoying mosquitos and the grueling toil of taking the high route in.
Once we reached the Luna Col, Richard informed me he was sick and started vommiting. He recovered in the morning and we had a great time on the NE Buttress of Fury. We reveled in its classic mountaineering, taking our crampons off and on 7 times. On a strange note we became separated on the descent. It was a bizrarre trial as we wondered what happend. We met up again at the Col figuring the other was ok and we each needed to get back to camp in order to survive. What a grand introduction to the range I cherish.
photo:  Seth Pollack————Dem Pickets!
July 4-2001- My next trip was a wonderful example of a wacky plan that played out beautifully. I devised this plan to have 2 separate teams traverse to the summit of Challenger coming in from opposite directions . Then we would meet on the summit and exchange car keys to return the other parties cars. I had just moved to Seattle and hooked up with 2 friends, we would form the Hannegan Pass approach team. I had 4 friends from Portland that I suckered into the difficult Eiley-Wiely Ridge approach. They struggled up the ridge for 2 days . It appeared they would run behind when we talked on the radios the night before summiting. As we rounded the glacier though we saw them trucking along to the saddle. It worked out perfect. We did just vacate the summit when they met us for our first celebration. After seeing a whole new side on the way out we met on day 5 in Seattle at Gorditos for a final party that would catalyze for us what was possible in this wonderous range.
Routes I reccomend in the Northern Pickets:
Northeast Buttress of Mt Fury
Mt Challenger
Luna Peak
SE Ridge of Mt Fury
West Ridge of Ghost
Poltergiest Pinnacle, Challenger
Mongo Ridge, West Fury
Haunted Wall, Spectre Peak
N Ridge Whatcom peak
Nice Pictures
NWMJ Report from Mike on Blob and Spectre
Great TR from Mike on Spectre
Getting around Fury
Soaked on Challenger-The start of 30 wet hours
The 4 Approaches to N Pickets:1-.Little Beaver:Suck Rating: 4 of 5Trail was washed out for miles, better lately. Longer boat ride(more $). Limited access to Pickets.
2.- Eiley-Wiely,Suck: 3 out of 5.        Really,really long . Both trail and ridge.      Only puts you at Challenger. Route finding difficulty. Up-side Amazing veiws once up high, is an ok way to get    out of Challenger area

3. -Easy Ridge. Suck 1 of 5 .The best way to get to North side of Pickets. Easy route finding after crossing Chilliwack and finding the TRAIL! Great veiws. Some work getting through Imperfect Impasse. Key is to go up first, then in.
4.- Access Creek .Suck 2 of 5. This is the best way to get to Fury / Luna.Dont get  off route in the valley, stay close to  creek. Look to stay on right side till last resort. Watch yourself up high too stay  right if worried about steep grass.Dont  even think of the Tabor Crowder High Route.
All routes in are 2 character building days
Season July-Sept

Great Beta Page- SP

Ice Station Zebra- below freezing night
Great Trip Report, Missing Photos?Challenger-Fury-Terror SP Report on this same trip(multiple pages)
Trip gone wrong
Challenger-Fury Combo TR
New Routes in The Northern Pickets? Shhhhh..
East Ridge of Swiss.
The 5 Summits Of Challenger Traverse
Any of 3 west faces of Challenger
Great West Buttress of Whatcom
West Face Cub Scout Salute
Tombstone Wall East Fury
North Ridge, Phantom Peak (Center of photo, left to right)
Several first winter ascents awaitRemember to keep these secret!
My Pickets Trips:
7-94 N.Butt, Mt. Fury
7-01 Challenger Traverse
8-02 W. MacMillan and Inspiration(2 summits)
6-03 Little Mac to Insp- (4 summits)
7-03 Sou. Pickets Traverse-(14 summits)-FA
7-04 N. Pick Traverse Attempt ( 5 summits)
7-05 N. Pick Traverse (9 summits)-FA
8-06 West Face Spectre pk-FA
8-06 Mongo Ridge , Mt Fury (3 summits)FA
8-07 N.Butt E.Twin Needle attempt
7-20-08 N. Butt. Mt. Terror 6-27-09 Thread of Ice-East Twin Needle  FA (2 summits)

6-22,23-10 S.Face Inspiration III-5.8

13 trips
47 days
44 summits

The Northern Pickets Summits
1. Outrigger Peak
2.Luna Peak
3. East Fury
4. West Fury
5.Swiss Peak
6. Spectre Peak
7.Phantom Peak
8.Ghost Peak
9.Crooked Thumb
10.Challenger Peak
11.Whatcom PeakSub summits?
Apparition, (Near Spectre)
Waiting Tower
Pole of Remoteness
4 Challenger sub-summits
3 Spectre sub-summits
Here are the GPS waypoints that Josh loaded in on our traverse. They came in handy when the weather was bad. It helped us track progress and gave us a lift when we passed the points.
Home

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May 2, 2010 Posted by | Alpine climbs, Old Waynessite | Leave a comment

Mongo

Here is another installment from the older waynessite. I am thinking of adding a new media thing for it, check back later, Wayne
Mongo Ridge, West Fury Peak
First ascent-solo -Aug 24-28/06
In August 13 of 2006, Mike and I  veiwed an amazing unclimbed ridge that he (Mike) was to name:  Mongo Ridge.
At the time we were climbing a new route on the West Face of Spectre Peak. I had known of Mongo on the map,but nothing could have prepared me for what I was about to do with it.
Awesome picture of the SW Ridge of West Fury Peak, also known as the “Mongo” Ridge.
Here Mike and I see “Mongo” after doing the first ascent of near-by Haunted Wall. We planned to climb it together the next year,but…..
2 weeks later, I find myself, alone on it!
The brush on the approach-suck
Looking down from the base of the Pole
<–My shadow on top of the “Pole of Remoteness”
My original report on CC,com (lots of pics)
This groundbreaking solo effort recived much attention. Alpinist did a feature.
Link to the NWMJ Feature Article
As did Climbing
The Brutal Stats:
Miles: total:50-60,off-trail 60%
Elevation gain: total:15,000′, route: 4000′
Peaks summited: 3 (including E. Fury 2x)
Grade : VI-510a
Number of pitches over 5.7:  30 +2 of ice
Number of rappels: 13,- 4 of them double
The biggest surprise was being contacted byThe New York Times!
This was a very enjoyable yet terrifying climb. Except for the ridge-gaining start, it was a Classic in every sense. The perfect medium to test all skills. It could have just as easily led to a harrowing dead-end. The cliffs on all sides were vast and steep. The setting , absolutly remote, The commitment: Total

Please promise yourself that you will do something that stretches and imboldens you in this, your life. It can lead to amazing growth.

Life is shorter than we will ultimately appreciate,

The Bivy!
below: Looking down the monster

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May 2, 2010 Posted by | Alpine climbs, Old Waynessite | Leave a comment

Solo Page

Solo Climbing Page


aka: You suck and nobody will climb with you!
“In my many decades of climbing, I have found no greater reward than going alone into the unknown. It seems one must really enjoy climbing for climbing’s sake to choose this way. Remove the comfort and camaraderie of having a partner, and what remains is just you against yourself and this big scary goal. An entirely different atmosphere is created. Confidence is the only currency accepted here. Leave your credit card at home.”From Coming to Terms with Mt Logan

The lure of adventure can run deep. What is it about going alone that can feed the romance in the high places? Is there some spiritual quest that takes place? Maybe there just isnt anyone available on that nice weekend.
There can be many factors that would drive one into harms way alone-Several solos of mine were last minute bails by partners. Maybe you would enjoy going faster if nobody was there to slow you down?. That specific route would be a great solo? Maybe your satisfaction level would rise with the pride of doing it by yourself. For many reasons, I try to do one to three solo trips each year. They have been some of my finest and funnest. I believe free-solo is the purest form of climbing.
I have seen a recent trip report where a gal went out alone and just didnt like climbing that way. At times I havent either.  Many trips would have been better if I had someone to talk to and share the scare with. Sometimes it is a mixed reward, other times it feels like destiny manifest.
If you must go alone rememmber the following.: Dont get hurt, Carry a verizon phone, Let several people know your plans, Know how to rescue youself, and dont get yourself in over your head.
Consider learning the sport from a solitary standpoint, Learn about yourself, build self reliance. Start off with easy, safer ones.

Dont do it until you are experienced enough to face the particular problems ,and ready to survive them.

Major routes done solo10-4 Rad Puppy Yos Valley – (fa, unpublished)
5-83 The Prow- Wash Column
2-85 Big Sierra Ski-Mteer Traverse – 5 days
4-85 Beast Couloir – (fa-unpublished)
10-86 Dancin’on Ceiling- (Grade V fa-unpublished)
11-87 Mujahdeen- (fa- Batwall)
5-91 Mt Hood Ski-circumnavigation
6-94 St Peters Dome
6-96 N Butt- Colchuck Peak
7-97 The Grand Wall- Squamish
10-97 Dir NE Face-Middle Sister
6-99 E Face-Clyde Minaret- free solo
6-99 Reg Rt- Fairveiw dome
6-99 E face Direct – Eichorn Pinnacle
6-99 Cathedral peak-Seirras
8-99 Mt Sir Donald
9-99 E ridge Forbidden Peak
11-99 Titanium Jag- Smith
10-00 Sunshine-Mt Hood
7-01 Comp N. Ridge – Mt Formidible
3-02 New York Gully-Snoq mt.
3-02 N. Face Dragontail Pk.
7-03 Fremont Glacier- Mt Logan
10-03 NW Ridge Mt Logan (fa)
7-04 The Tooth ( Crowning Achievment)
9-04 Ingalls Peaks Traverse
3-05 Mt Stone
9-05 Dome Peak+Pilot peak traverse
6-06 Mt Daniel
8-06 Mongo Ridge- Mt Fury (fa)
7-07 Stuart Range Traverse
2-08 Synchronicity (photo to the right)——–>
I personaly will free-solo up to 5.9 unless I feel otherwise.It is better to stay at least 5 letter or number grades below your Top-ropeing ability .
When I rope up I typically use The Soloist by Rock Wren. I have a Silent partner, but feel it may be best used while cragging. With either system you MUST follow the Instruction Manual to the tee.
I personaly feel that all climbing is solo- until you fall.
Pretend at all times it is just you holding yourself on, at times you are right.Talent is best nurtured in solitude- Goethe

(Thanks- Treetoad)

Interesting Solo Page
Photo:
Syncronicity, Lilloet, BC -2008
It is the waterfall on the right.———->
Self portraits on Mongo Ridge
above: My shadow, visible at the tip of the mountain shadow, Mongo Ridge
below: The best solo bivy ever!
Photo Logan, NW Ridge on right (photo : Paul Klenke)
So .. find the joy and satisfaction that can only come with solitude. Commune with nature in the most intimate and primitive sense. Just make it back so we can all hear about it, Cheers

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March 3, 2010 Posted by | Old Waynessite | Leave a comment

   

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