Great Traverses in Washington State and beyond…
Welcome to my traverse page. I am very fascinated by the practice of climbing to a nice mountain summit-> Then, continuing on the ridges that connect to then even more mountains . These are long ridge-top traverses with many peaks available along the way. Trips like these often make for an intense and rewarding outing. The pursuit is obviously available exclusively to the seasoned, experienced, and lucky climber for sure. One should be in top form for the demands of the top tier adventures..duh.
Having done a few, I am hooked. It is great to be on a mountain summit. Traverses allow you to spend days (AND NIGHTS!!!) on many summits, as well as see NEW territory for the entire trip!…… Wow! Lets get going!!
Perhaps, The qualities of a great traverse should consider the following :
The specific routes size, difficulty and its overall “classic/quality” sense.
After reviewing the “Great Traverses” , I came to the conclusion that there are three or so “tiers” of traverses.
The highest (1st) tier would be World Class Traverses. These are long, difficult outings. (Grade 6 and up, high 5th class, see examples below)
A solid 2nd tier example would be say, Torment-Forbidden Traverse (grade 4 to 5, and a classic.)
A good 3rd tier route could be: The Three Sisters Traverse in Central Oregon.( class 3-5, grade 2-4)
Big or small, easy to difficult, traverses have something to offer everyone.
There are different definitions of “Traverses”
- Enchainment Traverses. They can meander anywhere and do summits or routes along the way. The idea is to do as many summits as you can. The connecting ridge-line may be easy or vague.
-Summit Ridge Traverses. Almost always stay on or near the crest of the (often knife-edge) ridge that connects the summits. That idea of always being “on top”, is what I am trying to represent here . It is a tough game to play, being in a committed position for so long. I believe these are the unwritten definitions of this particular pursuit that I am trying to show here. It is a strange, contrived, and beautiful game, so I welcome differing opinions. We all make our own rules.
Enjoy the page!
Extreme Traverses in Washington State ( 1st and 2nd tier)
Torment -Forbidden (beta)…and—–My Trip Report IV+ 5.7, 1/2 mi.+
Northern Pickets Traverse VI-5.7, 6 mi.
Southern Pickets Traverse VI-5.10+ 3 mi+
Sawtooth Ridge Traverse, Olympics VI-5.8, 2 mi.
The Needles (Olympics)
The Valhalla Traverse (Olympics)
Bonanza Traverse #1 Tri-summit, NE to SW
Bonanza Traverse #2
Bonanza Traverse #3 Soviet Route to W Peak
Washington Pass Traverse VI-5.10 2 mi.
Index Traverse , my report, Marko and Colins Winter Ascent V-5.8, 1 1/2 mi.
Complete Twin Sisters Range Traverse
Gunrunner Traverse IV-5.9, 1/2 mi.
Bears Breast Traverse
Single Peak/Summit Ridge Traverses
N.W. Ridge, Mt Logan V-5.8, 1 mi.
Megaladon Ridge, Goode
Mongo Ridge, Mt Fury , Old Waynessite page VI-5.10-, 1 mi.
East Face of Mox (not a traverse, but could be) … became one to summit of Lemlo!
California Great Sierras Traverse page
Cathedral Peak Traverse
Evolution Traverse, California
The Minarets in California————-and another tr
The Palisades Traverse
Sawtooth Ridge Traverse
The Kaweah Traverse
Grand Teton Traverse ———-Mt. Project Beta
Mount Massive Colorado
(3 or 4 major summits; 11 total with minor summits; 3 miles long)
Pfiffner Traverse Colorado
Mohling Traverse Colorado
Cirque of the Towers Traverse
Mt. Wilson to El Diente traverse
Maroon Belles Traverse
“2nd to 3rd tier”
North Ridge Forbidden
Ragged Ridge traverse
3 Fingers Traverse
Snowking Cheval traverse
Bacon Hagan Blum traverse
Goode Stormking Logan traverse ……..2nd trip report
Three Sisters traverse (Oregon) Check out the super extended traverse in the right hand column!
Dakobed traverse ..more beta Hummel tr
Spearheads traverse ( Canada)
Ingalls Peak Traverse
Stuart Range Traverse
The Eureka (creek) traverse, Pasayten
Denny to Chair peak
Twin Sisters Traverse
Bears Breast Traverse
The Brothers Traverse (Olympics)
-Big Traverses of the World (1st tier)
Cerro Torre Traverse, congrats to partner, Colin Haley
Fitzroy group Swiss Group
-Yet to be done:
Aoraki Grand Traverse
The Tooth Traverse
Local to NW
Verita Ridge Super-Traverse
Challenger 4 Summit traverse
Complete Pickets Traverse ..2010 Attempt …2013 completion
Chimney Rock Traverse, tr of just Chimney Rock
Traverses have been around for a long time. It is hard to find quotes and history on what motivates other climbers to pursue them. Peter Croft and Lowell Skoog were my early inspirations.
Having been at the sport for a while , it is a great way for me to explore my capacity for climbing. It can get somewhat easy to climb just a single route.
It gives one the chance to stay on the summit longer as well.
There are easier traverses,to do, that most climbers have the capacity for.
Sold on the idea of traversing? Send me your trip report!
Tips: Be careful to bivy within easy escape if you can. Be familiar with all escapes/descents, and beware of being up high in bad weather and thunderstorms. On traverses you are more vulnerable to storms, exposure ,wind, and altitude issues. Physical exertion and water intake needs to managed well. I am always melting snow in a large water bladder in warmer temps. Light gear is essential. Bail, if, and before the weather turns bad. Figure on camps based on best/worst case scenario. Figure out any shuttle issues too.
If you are successful with this sport, it should be very rewarding!
The notorious Index Traverse. A favorite of some in winter! Great Winter/Cascades Page!
My personal traverses: Route, Date and(# of summits covered and # of miles along ridge-top)
The Oregon Cascade Grand Traverse Hood to Broken Top July-1982 (8 summits)
The Southern Pickets Traverse-FA 7-03 (14 summits, 4miles)
The Sawtooth Ridge Traverse 8-04 (20 summits, 2 Miles Long)
Ingalls Peaks Traverse 9-04 (3-4 summits Half Mile)
The Northern Pickets Traverse-FA 7-05 (9-10 summits, 8 miles)
The Stuart Range Traverse 7-05 (5 summits, 3miles)
Torment-Forbidden Traverse 8-08 (2-summits,1 and a half miles)
The 3 Fingers Traverse 5-09(3 summits ,Quarter Mile)
GunrunnerTraverse 7-17-09, (4 sum., 3/4 mile) IV-5.10, 2nd ascent
N.W. Ridge, Mt Logan-FA 10-2003 ( 1 summit, 1 mile)
Mongo Ridge, Mt Fury-FA 8-2006 (3 summits, 1 mile, plus W to E Furies traverse for descent)
Index Traverse 7-10, (3 summits, 1 mile)
Interesting discussion from 2 of my friends on the Washington Pass Traverse:
search words: “climbing” , “climbing traverses” ,” NW traverses”
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