Great Traverses

Great Traverses in Washington State and beyond…
Welcome to my traverse page. I am very fascinated by the practice of climbing summits and the ridges that connect them.

Having done a few, I am hooked. They are very rewarding.

It is great to be on summits. Traverses allow you to spend days (AND NIGHTS!!!) on many summits,

as well as see NEW territory for the entire trip!……  Wow! Lets get going!!
Enjoy, Wayne

Perhaps, The qualities of a great traverse should consider the following :
The specific routes size, difficulty and its overall “classic” sense.
After reviewing the “Great Traverses” , I came to the conclusion that there are three or so “tiers”  of traverses.
The highest tier would be World Class Traverses .( see examples below)
A solid second as well as first tier example would be say, the Waddington Traverse (grade 5 to 6, and a classic.)
A good third tier route could be , say : The Three Sisters Traverse in Central Oregon.
Big or small, traverses really have something to offer everyone.
Due to the authors lack of familiarity with some of the climbs, the list may need some work.

If you have experience with a route, let me know any opinions, please

Ok, Here is where I make a point that I have wanted to make for a while.There are different definitions of  “Traverses”
Old style traverses of the Pickets and other ranges use to be nothing more than crossing the crest of a range and maybe a summit or two along the way. I dont mean to minimize anyones efforts. I have the utmost respect for the all adventurers

Then there are true “Summit Ridge Traverses” that almost always stay on or near the crest of the ridge that connects the summits.That is what I am trying to represent here on this page
Then there are enchainments. They meander anywhere and do summits or routes along the way.
I believe these are the unwritten rules of this particular game  that I am trying to show here. I welcome differing opinions.
Enjoy the page!

Extreme Traverses in  Washington State  (somewhere between 1st and second tier)
Torment -Forbidden (beta)…and—–My Trip Report
Northern Pickets Traverse
Southern Pickets Traverse
Sawtooth Ridge Traverse, Olympics
The Needles (Olympics)
The Valhalla Traverse (Olympics)
Bonanza Traverse #1 Tri-summit, NE to SW
Bonanza Traverse #2
Washington Pass Traverse
Index Traverse , my report, Marko’s Winter Ascent
Complete Twin Sisters Range Traverse
Gunrunner Traverse
Ptarmagin Traverse
Formidible Traverse

Single Peak/Summit Ridge Traverses
N.W. Ridge, Mt Logan
Megaladon Ridge, Goode
Mongo Ridge, Mt Fury
East Face of Mox (not a traverse, but could be)

Waddington Range Traverse
Tantalus Traverse.

Evolution Traverse, California
Mathes Crest
The Minarets in California
The Palisades Traverse
Sawtooth Ridge Traverse
Ritter/Banner Traverse
The Kaweah Traverse

Grand Teton Traverse
Capitol/Snowmass Colorado
Mount Massive Colorado
(3 or 4 major summits; 11 total with minor summits; 3 miles long)
Pfiffner Traverse Colorado
Mohling Traverse Colorado
Cirque of the Towers Traverse

Northern Pickets Traverse photo Josh Kaplan
The Thunderbolt to Sill Traverse ,Palisades,  photo, Lane Brown
3rd tier
The Northwest

North Ridge Forbidden
Ragged Ridge traverse
Isolation traverse
3 Fingers Traverse
Snowking Cheval traverse
Tatoosh Traverse
Bacon Hagan Blum traverse
Goode Stormking Logan traverse
Three Sisters traverse (Oregon)
Dakobed traverse
Spearheads traverse ( Canada)
Ingalls Peak Traverse
Stuart Range Traverse
The Eureka (creek) traverse, Pasayten
Denny to Chair peak
Twin Sisters Traverse
The Brothers Traverse (Olympics)
Cathedral Peak Traverse

Big Traverses of the World  (1st tier)
Mt Waddington, again
Cerro Torre Traverse, congrats to partner, Colin Haley
Paine Traverse
Fitzroy group
Bolivia: Ancohoma > Illampu
Gasherbrum Traverse
Care Bear Traverse

Devils Thumb Traverse

Many in Europe that I dont know about…
Morgenhorn-Blumlisaphorn Traverse

Yet to be done,:
Aoraki Grand Traverse
Mazeno Ridge

Verita Ridge Super-Traverse
Complete Pickets Traverse
Chimney Rock Traverse
Lemah Traverse

Why Traverses?
Traverses have been around for a long time. I have been looking for quotes and history on what motivates other climbers. Peter Croft and Lowell Skoog were my early inspirations.
Having been at the sport for a while , it is a great way for me to explore my capacity for climbing. It can get really easy to climb just a single route.
Traverses allow for no limits.
There are easier ones to do that most climbers have the capacity for.
It gives one the chance to stay on the summit longer as well.
Sold on the idea of traversing? Send me your trip report!Be careful to bivy within easy escape if you can. Be familiar with  all escapes and beware of being up high in bad weather and thunderstorms. On traverses you are more vulnerable to storms, exposure ,wind, and altitude issues. Light gear is essential, so bail if and before it turns bad. Figure out any shuttle issues too.
If you are successful with this sport, it should be very rewarding!
Good Luck
The notorious Index Traverse. A favorite of some in winter!
Photo by Eric L.
Sawtooth Ridge Traverse, Olympics
Photo, Wayne Wallace
Above: On the Waddington ridge
Above-right: The Everest Trilogy
Right : Sawtooth Traverse in The Sierras
Below The Red Kaweah,from Black
Photos : Doug Artman (except Everest)
My Personal Traverses: Route, Date and(# of summits covered and # of miles along ridge-top)
The Oregon Cascade Grand Traverse Hood to Broken Top July-1982 (8 summits)
The Southern Pickets Traverse 7-2003 (14 summits, 4miles)
The Sawtooth Ridge Traverse  8-2004 (20 summits, 2 Miles Long)
Ingalls Peaks Traverse 9-2004 (3-4 summits Half Mile)
The Northern Pickets Traverse 7-2005 (9-10 summits, 8 miles)
The Stuart Range Traverse 7-2005 (5 summits, 3miles)
Torment-Forbidden Traverse 8-2008 (2-summits,1 and a half miles)
The 3 Fingers Traverse (3 summits ,Quarter Mile)Traverse-like Mountain Routes:
N.W. Ridge, Mt Logan 10-2003 ( 1 summit, 1 mile)
Mongo Ridge, Mt Fury 8-2006 (3 summits, 1 mile)
search words: “climbing” , “climbing traverses” ,” NW traverses”


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