Solo Page

Solo Climbing Page

aka: You suck and nobody will climb with you!
“In my many decades of climbing, I have found no greater reward than going alone into the unknown. It seems one must really enjoy climbing for climbing’s sake to choose this way. Remove the comfort and camaraderie of having a partner, and what remains is just you against yourself and this big scary goal. An entirely different atmosphere is created. Confidence is the only currency accepted here. Leave your credit card at home.”From Coming to Terms with Mt Logan

The lure of adventure can run deep. What is it about going alone that can feed the romance in the high places? Is there some spiritual quest that takes place? Maybe there just isnt anyone available on that nice weekend.
There can be many factors that would drive one into harms way alone-Several solos of mine were last minute bails by partners. Maybe you would enjoy going faster if nobody was there to slow you down?. That specific route would be a great solo? Maybe your satisfaction level would rise with the pride of doing it by yourself. For many reasons, I try to do one to three solo trips each year. They have been some of my finest and funnest. I believe free-solo is the purest form of climbing.
I have seen a recent trip report where a gal went out alone and just didnt like climbing that way. At times I havent either.  Many trips would have been better if I had someone to talk to and share the scare with. Sometimes it is a mixed reward, other times it feels like destiny manifest.
If you must go alone rememmber the following.: Dont get hurt, Carry a verizon phone, Let several people know your plans, Know how to rescue youself, and dont get yourself in over your head.
Consider learning the sport from a solitary standpoint, Learn about yourself, build self reliance. Start off with easy, safer ones.

Dont do it until you are experienced enough to face the particular problems ,and ready to survive them.

Major routes done solo10-4 Rad Puppy Yos Valley – (fa, unpublished)
5-83 The Prow- Wash Column
2-85 Big Sierra Ski-Mteer Traverse – 5 days
4-85 Beast Couloir – (fa-unpublished)
10-86 Dancin’on Ceiling- (Grade V fa-unpublished)
11-87 Mujahdeen- (fa- Batwall)
5-91 Mt Hood Ski-circumnavigation
6-94 St Peters Dome
6-96 N Butt- Colchuck Peak
7-97 The Grand Wall- Squamish
10-97 Dir NE Face-Middle Sister
6-99 E Face-Clyde Minaret- free solo
6-99 Reg Rt- Fairveiw dome
6-99 E face Direct – Eichorn Pinnacle
6-99 Cathedral peak-Seirras
8-99 Mt Sir Donald
9-99 E ridge Forbidden Peak
11-99 Titanium Jag- Smith
10-00 Sunshine-Mt Hood
7-01 Comp N. Ridge – Mt Formidible
3-02 New York Gully-Snoq mt.
3-02 N. Face Dragontail Pk.
7-03 Fremont Glacier- Mt Logan
10-03 NW Ridge Mt Logan (fa)
7-04 The Tooth ( Crowning Achievment)
9-04 Ingalls Peaks Traverse
3-05 Mt Stone
9-05 Dome Peak+Pilot peak traverse
6-06 Mt Daniel
8-06 Mongo Ridge- Mt Fury (fa)
7-07 Stuart Range Traverse
2-08 Synchronicity (photo to the right)——–>
I personaly will free-solo up to 5.9 unless I feel otherwise.It is better to stay at least 5 letter or number grades below your Top-ropeing ability .
When I rope up I typically use The Soloist by Rock Wren. I have a Silent partner, but feel it may be best used while cragging. With either system you MUST follow the Instruction Manual to the tee.
I personaly feel that all climbing is solo- until you fall.
Pretend at all times it is just you holding yourself on, at times you are right.Talent is best nurtured in solitude- Goethe

(Thanks- Treetoad)

Interesting Solo Page
Syncronicity, Lilloet, BC -2008
It is the waterfall on the right.———->
Self portraits on Mongo Ridge
above: My shadow, visible at the tip of the mountain shadow, Mongo Ridge
below: The best solo bivy ever!
Photo Logan, NW Ridge on right (photo : Paul Klenke)
So .. find the joy and satisfaction that can only come with solitude. Commune with nature in the most intimate and primitive sense. Just make it back so we can all hear about it, Cheers


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s