Trout Creek, Oregon: The Perfect Cracks

Trout Creek Video

Just got back from 3 days climbing at Trout Creek, near Madras Or. Craig and Adrian talked me into making a run on thier favorite place to rock climb. I had never seen the place and I was just floored by the fun potential there for someone who enjoys a good jam crack

(left).Adrian on Squiggles.

Me, flaming. on Fingerling 5.10+(right)

Adrian and Craig from Moscow, ID (above)

As for the routes themselves..

…….The only way you can really understand is by going there…

The cracks are cooler than cracks usually are, and much longer. Expect 30m of sustained bliss.

So many times when I have done shorter , yet really awesome crack climbs, I find myself wishing the crack was much longer. I was wishing for Trout Creek. Few will be disappointed with any of its 100+ most splitter established climbs.

Craig finished his project just before I finished the send on my second try.

Overall I ended up on 8 routes, 2 at 5.11 and a couple of 10+’s the rest where 9’s and 10’s used mostly as warm-up (though Amazing nonetheless.)

Then there is the setting.

If you dont mind a bunch of fishermen camped around you , the place is very beautiful up high on the crag and the river below.

The Trout Creek  climbing community is so chill too and reasonably helpful when it comes to loaning that cam or 2 you need for the big lead.

Thanks to Craig and Adrian for dragging me here, and Pro Mountain Sports for the many cams we needed.

Add it to your list, Wayne


  1. mike preiss says

    wayne, just kidding about the black book, its just a regular notebook and you probibly have the same ones in mind.I did want to go check it out but never did. great job on fury thats out their, especialy alone.

  2. says

    Hey man, I’m putting together a K2 expedition. Want to join?

    Hi Wayne! I came across this looking for info on Trout Creek climbing. How are you doing? You must have survived the Seattle snow.

    I’m still plugging way at the Oregonian.



Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s