Bugaboos 10′


I am leaving soon for the amazing Bugaboo Range. I am going with 3 people that have never been there before. The last guidebook talked of envy of the person visiting there for the first time. It will be my 4th trip, yet I vividly remember my first trip there in ‘96 with Lane. It will also be my 4th attempt at my dream route on Howser. Wish us luck! We hope to be back in a few days.


The four of us had an awesome trip! Rob and Megan did 2 of the Crescent Spires including the Lions Way route. Beau and I did the Paddle Flake route on day 2 as well.

All the while, on our minds, Beau and I had the Beckey Chouinard Route on the South Howser Tower. On all 4 of my prior trips it was on the agenda, but weather twice, and summit cornices kept it on top of my list. We expected the weather to cooperate and when we got up at 3 am it was all stars in the night.

The approach took only 3 hours, and we found only 2 parties on the route!  We passed the one at the base and hung out with the guys that we chose to stay behind. Very nice of them to offer, but we needed the rest. Thanks Dan D. of Outdoor Research and Kirk too. Great to hang out with you.

The route is very fun, but more wide crack and chimney than I expected. There where about 6 very awesome pitches including the Prow Direct variation that I took on pitch 3. It is the .10d thin crack to the left of the regular wide crack. It goes right on the prow and is very sweet. This ascent capped the most amazing climbing summer of my life. Huge thanks to Lane, Beau, Rob, Brad,Tom, Chelsea, the State of Washington, and the good wishes of all our friends who made it all so fun.

My Facebook Photo page of the trip

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