2 weeks in Hyalite/Cody 2011

Just finished climbing in super cold temps in Hyalite Canyon. Below zero most of the time with freaky cold temp (-25 degree) at night. Tom and I were staying in the cabin again with friends.

We ended up ticking a half dozen pitches in the coldest conditions I have been in a long time, if not ever!

Day 1

2 laps on Thrill is Gone, and the very fun: Magically Delicious , both in thin and bony conditions.

Day 2:

Matrix, Feeding the Cat, and Scepter all in fat and cold/brittle conditions. Even with sharp picks, I would swing into the ice thinking I was instead , hitting the rock. Very strange conditions,

Couldn’t photograph much due to the effects of the cold on my camera battery. Both my self and my batteries are being charged again in Wyoming.

We are now taking a day off in Cody  and really stoked to be here in moderating temperatures.

Day 4:

We plucked a gem in great conditions today! Broken Hearts is one incredible climb, and all 6 pitches were in. The last 2 formed the cruxes. Some photos courtesy of Tom Sjolseth.




Day 5:
Tried unsuccessfully to cross the river to get to Mean Green. With wet feet we went on to do Cabin Fever and p1 of Wyoming Wave.

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Day 6:

Into the Triptych Drainage and did an ascent of the rarely formed Hostile Takeover (HT).

The book rates it WI5, but I thought it was in 4 shape currently.

We then did a new variation/ start to HT:

Hostile Stepover WI4, M5, is the thin streak to the right of HT’s first pitch. It was a marvelous steep/thin ice smear that dissapeared in to large roofs, then traverses left,mixed, over to HT.

It was a superb pitch that made me so glad that I always bring a little rock gear along.
Facebook Album

the video

 






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Day 8: We both fell in the creek again to ruin a trip into Ovisight, Managed to get up p1 of Legg Creek route then wallow in waist deep snow until cold and exhausted.

Day 9 :
Moonrise in very cold temps, it is a sweet 3 pitch WI5 in very fat conditions. Nice prize after a fail/snow day yesterday, and a rest day before that.


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Day 10 Mean Green to p4. A Cody classic, though we now realize just how amazing Broken Heart really was. Mean is good though offering several quality pitches .

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Day 11,

We did the long hike to Spying and Flying and did its first 2 pitches, then I led Ro Sham Bo WI5. On the way out, I slipped on the flat river ice and split open my eyebrow. It broke my old glasses and is still bleeding hours later. I crossed it 8 times on this trip and of course on the last and most tired crossing…
That ended my longest ice trip ever, 14days! I now have logged in 56 ice pitches this season. All good things must end though, I am going back to work after 15 long months off.

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