Snoqualmie Mountain N.Face

After a recent ascent of Snoqualmie Mt , I decided to make a page devoted to it, one of my favorite places to climb.

Shortly after moving to Seattle in 01. I saw fit to try one of the harder routes in the Nelson Select vol 2, New York Gully. The 1 nice weekend that winter came in February and I had it lined it up to go. Just before it was time to go, my partner bailed due to a tooth issue. I threw in my soloist and some more pieces and went anyways. I messed up the approach, but not knowing the way in led me to go in during the daylight and spend the night at the saddle . While there, I met Colin Haley and Mark Bunker for the first time. They had just completed the 4th ascent of the route. What great partners they would be for me in the years to come. They reported that there was not much ice, but the route was a blast. I was off in the morning and had a great time on the route though this time it was rather dry. It felt not too difficult for its steepness. I did the route in 4 pitches with 4 hrs on route.

A few years later Roger and Dan did the first ascent of a route they named Pineapple Express. Boasting more pitches and a harder rating, I started a series of attempts on it. The first was a comedy of errors, botching the approach, going leashless without hand grips, and very foul weather to boot.

The second try was when Craig and I accidently did a new variation the P-Ex that we name Blue Moon, figuring the obvious ice line didnt come in that often. It was a great route that saw a 2nd ascent shortly after by Dane and Jens. My third attempt was a sad attempt to get up Phantom slide in super deep snow.

Shortly after Blue Moon, Mark Bunker and I repeated NY Gully in awesome conditions, adding a direct start, and finding ice the whole way up. It came in the same fat way this year as well.

Another NYG tr.
This year , with Toms company, I made it up Pineapple Express. It was in great shape too, mostly ice with the mixed crux dry. We had a great day despite deep snow and Tom not feeling well.

Now that I have climbed  the wall many times, it is clear to me there is much more room for new route activity in this area. I hope to find a good Scurlock type photo of it and do a nice topo soon showing all the lines on it and the sub peaks.

It is so great to have this area so close to Seattle. As I have always said, I dont understand why there are not lines of climbers queued up at the base of this wall!



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