Utah 5-2011

After last years jaunt through Utah and my friends recent trip, I was pretty excited to get back. It is an amazing and challenging place to climb. The nose, eyes, lungs, and ears get clogged with sand. The wind drives it everywhere. It is either hot or cold, and inhospitable most of the time. Sounds bad, but at times it is pure bliss as well.

The trip was thrown together last minute with the sudden recruitment of a new partner I found from Vancouver, B.C. by the name of Jesse. A strong climber raised on granite, he was in for culture shock in his new martian environment.

We first went to the City of Rocks, but found it under a foot of snow. Castle Rocks though was in prime shape. We did the High Road (5.11, 3p) first then did some great climbs called Patina Atoll (10d), and the sweet route called Twinkie (10c). The next day we finished the drive and did Ancient Art via the Stolen Chimney in the Fisher Towers.  So fun-

Jesse then kicked into his first Utah climbing lead: p2, 5.7

I then did p3, an exposed delicate face problem. 5.9/.10

Jesse then took the exposed summit pinnacle lead. His first desert tower.

What an incredible summit!

It was a day to remember, but not for long the next day we were after the Jah Man route on Sister Superior. One of the best climbs I have ever done.

The 4 pitch Jah Man an route is a total classic from the 5.7 chimney at the start to the absolutely exposed splitter on p2+3

We met Mike and Brit later that night and prepared for a trip down the White Rim to try the Search of Suds route on the Washerwoman


Washerwoman was #3 superb tower summit for the trip. It set an expectation that demanded we all go for the Titan via the Finger of Fate route.. It is one of “those” 50 classics that see few successes, I am sure. Our plan went great until I took a big fall on the crux , and after fixing the first 3 pitches, it rained the following night. Still, it was very rewarding to do as well as we did. 3 and a Half Towers was just fine!  The forecast took a dive from there, Trip over-


  1. […] do many great pitches along the way. It was a relief to finally succeed on the Titan with Mike. Our first attempt was hampered by rain and one of my biggest falls on lead. Neither one of us expected to return if we […]

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