A Year of Redemption
In roughly a one year span, I (unintentionally) went after 8 different larger alpine routes that I had attempted many times prior. More on that later, but first…
It is important to be cautious when in a dangerous environment like the alpine arena. There are enough difficulties and things that can go wrong with just doing the climb. Objective issues CAN and MUST be minimized! Rockfall, avy hazard, are slightly helped by early start, and savy weather data. They are eliminated by just the willingness to not push on. I am not trying to convince you to be a bail master- true ambition takes patience.
I was lucky to survive my early climbing career. It was traumatizing to go through many horrendous experiences. I hadnt yet developed the awareness required to avoid epics and failure.
Please be willing to give the route another try at a later time.
So here are the numbers on the routes that took multiple tries that I “got” last year:
N. Face Chair Peak : got on my 5th attempt (embarassing)
Center Drip, Black Spider, Mt Hood. 15 attempts (became a lifestyle)
N Face, North Index, 3
North Ridge Forbidden Peak: 2
West Face, Pingora Tower: 2
Choi-Beckey rt, S. Howser Tower: 4
Vesper Peak: 2
Pineapple Express, Snoq. pk: 4
8 routes, 37 attempts
Update, 2 more routes since post:
8-11 Action potential 2 attempts
8-11 Ne Rib Mt Johannesberg 5 attempts
8-11 Springbok Arete 2 attempts
11 routes 46 attempts.
Keep trying, and learning! its worth it in the long run.