It is a testament to El-Nino and an open minded approach to ice climbing that an interesting new route was enjoyed on the 4th of July in 2011. It also was made possible by being at the high altitude of Mt Adams,- The shade of a northwest face, -and a tough young lady with an eye for ice. Anastasia enticed me with the following email:
Here is a few pics from the last year (mid July!) and I can dig more out if needed:WI pitch -longer than it looks on the pic – and probably fatter earlier in the season, stays in shade pretty much all day – cuz it is buried in the buttress:
Knowing that you are into exploring the new lines on old big volcanoes, I thought I would ask
But I understand if you have other priorities/interests.
Let me know.Anastasia
I always forget how big these Monster-Volcanos are.
That tiny looking cliff is actually 2 pitches. The whole route is over 3000 feet tall, with several technical pitches along the top of it. After sharing the first half of the “Stormy Monday Couloir” we soloed the first steps. Then got after the middle pitches, the first was a 50m WI3+. Anastasia tackled the 30m 2nd pitch.
After the middle pitches, it became a real struggle to find a way up the overhanging 60m rock band at the top. I began a traverse to the left hoping it would allow me get to through it and to the summit snow-slopes. The traverse went on for quite a ways until I found the way through at the end of the cliff. It was an awesome pitch. Vertical ice and rock followed by a short overhang with”good” rime to pull up on. Such a great finish to a long ice season. .