Adams Glacier Headwall- FA of “Ice Extension”

It is a testament to El-Nino and an open minded approach to ice climbing that an interesting new route was enjoyed on the 4th of July in 2011.  It also was made possible by being at the high altitude of Mt Adams,- The shade of a northwest face, -and  a tough young lady with an eye for ice. Anastasia enticed me  with the following email:

Hey Wayne,I was wondering if you would be interested in trying a new variation on the Adams Headwall with me (at >11k) which I spotted last year from the Stormy Monday Couloir.In short, it includes 2 pitch of WI3-4(?) (and it was in through July last year) followed by 60-70 deg alpine ice/rock (more ice early in the season I bet) to get to the rim at about 11500′.
Here is a few pics from the last year (mid July!) and I can dig more out if needed:WI pitch -longer than it looks on the pic – and probably fatter earlier in the season, stays in shade pretty much all day – cuz it is buried in the buttress:
Knowing that you are into exploring the new lines on old big volcanoes, I thought I would ask smile
But I understand if you have other priorities/interests.
Let me know.Anastasia
Given my history of trying anything once, we did the long, snowy approach on Sunday the 3rd and the route on a brutal 22hr Monday, July 4.(counting the drive back).
I always forget how big these Monster-Volcanos are.
That tiny looking cliff is actually 2 pitches. The whole route is over 3000 feet tall, with several technical pitches along the top of it. After sharing the first half of the “Stormy Monday Couloir” we soloed the first steps. Then got after the middle pitches, the first was a 50m WI3+. Anastasia tackled the 30m 2nd pitch.
After the middle pitches, it became a real struggle to find a way up the overhanging 60m rock band at the top. I began a traverse to the left hoping it would allow me get to through it and to the summit snow-slopes. The traverse went on for quite a ways until I found the way through at the end of the cliff. It was an awesome pitch. Vertical ice and rock followed by a short overhang with”good” rime to pull up on. Such a great finish to a long ice season. .
.

the first pitch looms above, photo by Anastasia

Wayne on route, Photo by Anastasia

Wayne on route, Photo by Anastasia

The Crux Pitch, Photo by Anastasia

Comments

Trackbacks

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s