Lane and I went on a hard route spree last weekend bagging Paisano Pinnacle via the Rampage route (4.5 p, 5.10d)and the (probable) 3rd ascent of Action Potential (9p, 5.10c/d, imo) on the East face of Burgundy Spire (a route we had attempted a few years ago).
We had a great time on these wild routes of similar character. Both routes had steep flaring thin-cracks and very strenuous cruxes.
Afrter humping the bivy up to the col saturday we racked up and hit The Rampage route on Paisano in the afternoon. The 4 and a half pitch route was great, offering 2 crux pitches that had similarities to a fist fight. Maximum effort was required to stick to the rattly jams and locks. The last pitch we got off route and I ended up traversing across some wild face to avoid the disappearing seam I had got stuck on.
Sunday, We were up in the morning to chop steps with a rock to get around to Action Potential. A couple of my friends, Mike Layton and Mark Allen, put up this route . I liked the name, and Lane and I wandered up there a few years ago only to find it foggy. This time we were headed up it and found good rock and fun moves with a very demanding crux. Their sense of humor was evident on pitch 6 with the “fun” 5.8 pitch. Expect very serious climbing and route finding on this, the 2nd crux. Impressed with the exposure and the how dang long the route was, it was great to be on the summit after a 14 pitch weekend. Not bad for a couple of 48 year olds.
will load Lanes photos soon.
Here are some of Lanes pics