My prior J-berg experiences:
My first attempt was in winter way back in 199o. sigh. Such dreams of grandeur ended at the top of the base cone in utter awe of this new scale of wall I hadnt yet conceived of. It was humbling for a while until hell year, when I just didnt care much about surviving. I was in the middle of a divorce when in May 94 ,I made a reckless solo attempt that ended in me getting hit by 2 avalanches on the way down from half-way up the N E Rib route . It was then that I figured out that my kids need me no matter my silly ambitions. This mountain became a symbol of my ambitions vs cold mountain reality. Not to give in too easily it rained the next time I scurried around its base.
The very next year though it let me get up the C_J route all the way to within a few hundred feet of its top only to start raining again. My demons roared in dismay yet I was satisfied with that for the next 16 years. This year I began to notice that I was picking off many routes that I had logged sooo many attempts on prior, and J- berg was about the last one standing.
With all of the grim tales I have heard about and been through, I was amazed to find a partner that had climbed it twice before over the last 2 years! this mountain truly has a hold on some deep primal, poorly understood need. Tom also knew another tormented soul who had this angst -ridden drive. Sergio was key, as the rope bearer that got us rolling yet again to the Dark Tower. This time the trip went great, despite me being a bit of a post trauma tight-ass. We did joke and had fun the entire way. The route was more difficult than any of us remembered from prior attempts. There where so many different extreme environments, it was surreal and disorienting. Here are a few photos, Tom used a bunch of all of ours on his tr.