Acid Baby-Aasgard Pass

Pitch 1

Blakes tr on Cascade climbers

This being my only weekend off since July 4th, I wanted a route with maximum fun, as well as minimum effort. I have been working overtime six days a week for months and am chronically exhausted. I picked the perfect route with the selection of Acid Baby in the Aasgard Pass area, next to Dragontail. It wasnt going to go smoothly however. Overnight permits on labor day weekend were scarce, and my partner bailed at the last minute due to injury. Cascadeclimbers to the rescue again. I found a dental student in the partners wanted section named Jon, and we were off. Not able to get a permit from  the daily lottery, we crunched the trip into a long push.We did it in 5 long pitches ( +1 belay move), each lead was totally enjoyable. Its grade fairly @ 10d(+) a little strenuous in places, dicey traverses, and some wide stems. The climb is fantastic, both in quality and atmosphere. I give it four stars. It felt like I was finally home again after being away a long time.

Pitch 2 belay with Jon

Pitch 3,” Money Pitch” 5.10d

Dreamy belay view

High up on p3

Delicate start to p5

on belay

p5, delicate traversing yet again

Aasgard Pass Spire

Some stray notes:

We think we saw the accident site, and there are still loose blocks there to dance around, save a small yellow metolius for plugging in above the blocks. They want to be trundled but the base would have to be cleared of the endless hikers below.

These may be the loose blocks that are left over from the august 2012 accident and they are very loose. They can be protected with a yellow Metolious cam above them, and then mantled upon with great care. They should be trundled though by a local party with ground support clearing the trail of people. Spread the word, Thanks.

-If you get the odd numbered leads, you will get all of the best pitches and cruxes too. All leads are very fun though.

-Make sure your leader is not pulling for slack, while he is actually falling!!

-Hats off to my friends -Mike, Rolf, and Dan- who did the first ascent of this amazing climb!

Comments

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