Hyalite 12/13

Feeling very lucky to land in Bozeman this season, and enjoy some climbing with Vern, and Keenan. 2  young men that I have had discourse via internet, and now swapping leads with them, on some great ice routes. Huge Thank Yous to Ari, Marko, Lisa, Charles, Vern, Keenan, Anita, and Tab, for being such giving friends.

Day 1. Vern and I ran into Anita and Tab on Palisade Falls, after saying goodbye to 2 friends from Oregon. It was in smaller, steeper shape with large cauliflower’s to manage. Great fun for laps on different lines.

Day 2: Killer Pillar is still soaking climbers on both sides. The left side being slightly drier. The mixed is fun and drier, so is the tube start behind the pillar on top  rope.

Day 3: Late start works great for getting up Slight of Hand, which has a short approach since the road is till ungated as of late. (gate will close jan 2, unless snow depth warrants earlier closure) Very fun route.

Day 4: Rest for me, Vern and Keenan head for Horsetail Falls.They report good conditions there too, then did Palisade again.

Day 5: Vern, Keenan, and I go after Climb above Dribbles, now known as “Alex in Wonderland” ,starting with Silken Falls. It is a long approach and the 1st rock pitch is loose and sketch. Keenan led this, but V and I froze at the cold belay. We were also running out of daylight so we bailed before the crux 2nd pitch quickly.

Day 6. Vern and I do a very wet Scepter. We recovered from that in warmer temps and did the 4 other routes to the right. Starting with Mummy 2 then Matrix (fun) ,solo right of Matrix, then finishing with Feeding the Cat. Great day!

Day 7 Responsible Family Men is a great pitch. Worth the long hike up there, the exposure and ambience is like that of a big Canadian route. We took the direct approach using Markos great beta yet again. We wound down the day with Switchback falls , and the mixed route to the far left. Fun day!

Day 8: Cleopatras Needle was in great shape, but less there than the other 2 times I have done it. Ari, and I followed a tired Vern up and I got some great shots in the early morning sun. What a great trip we had, hooking up with friends for climbing and socializing. Quite a sport for occupying the darker, colder months of the year. Thanks to Marko,and Ari for putting us up for the week!

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