Utah/City of Rocks 13

I have such strange luck when traveling alone. Dread of long hours alone in the car -in the middle of nowhere -is new to me in my recent years. The scars from my Euro trip still showing?  Though I wish I could have found a full-time travel partner, I am looking forward to meeting up with several friends on a multi-state journey . Wish I wasn’t such a wuss about it.

I soon got into the flow of taking care of myself, and letting plans flow due to weather and people I would meet.

Overcoming my pre trip dread was easy after visiting my family in Pdx, then meeting old friends in Smith, then Utah, then Idaho, whew! Perfect weather the whole 3 weeks has helped me do many great pitches along the way.

It was a relief to finally succeed on the Titan ( 8p, 5.9-C3) with Mike. Our first attempt was hampered by rain and one of my biggest falls on lead. Neither one of us expected to return if we didnt make it this time.

After getting a late start, I was able to fix the first 2 pitches, and retreat in the dark to a camp at the base of the route. It was great climbing in the cool of the morning in perfect weather. The climb went great, and we finished the route by 3pm. Some pics:

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Then after a few great days in Potash Road with various folks, , I hooked up with a nice couple from Brazil. We climbed Lighthouse Tower together (3p, 5.10+). Got some great pics there too on my 8th, and their 1st tower!

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The trip continues to Indian Creek.I pulled in to Supercrack parking and met a couple from my neighborhood, David, and Dafna. We did a couple of fine routes in the shade. Cave route and Generic crack made a nice evening for sure. Dave and Dafna told me to find a wild man from Colorado in the Cottonwood camp. I went straight for him (Dave, from Colo.), and we hooked up the next 2 days on some of the most stunning climbing I have ever done. Day 1 sent us up to the Rambo Wall, and we got busy with Blue Sun for a warm up, then we went after Layaway Plan, an amazing 11+ corner to undercling roof. Dave came so close to the red-point, it came down to a spun biner. I pulled the rope and got the pink-point of it. Way-Rambo sent me to the cleaners, Dave , and wife Mia, led Desire, and we finished the day on a beautiful arch : Chestful of Kindness.

That evenings rain storm made Rimshot that much more slippery the next day. The 5 pitch 5.11 offers 4 very difficult yet fun pitches in the morning shade. Being cold at the belays was a testament to the near perfect weather I have had on this incredible trip.

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After leaving Indian Creek, I stayed with Mike and Britne, thanks again to you 2 for the hospitality. The next day it was off to Castle Rocks/ City of Rocks to meet Lane for a few days. On the 3rd, and last day with him, I started climbing with Mike S. from Colorado. Mike and I stayed a couple of more days and had bagged many more classics, my favorites were Silent Partner, and Morning Glory. Left to reflect on the trip driving back, I believe it to be one of my best trips ever, climbing 80+ pitches average in 10c and 3 stars to boot. Being able to rope gun/guide allowed me to be compatible with 15 different climbing partners as well.  So glad I went and made it a great memory.


  1. off white says

    Looks like a great trip Wayne, the pics of the contortions in the stembox on Lighthouse are especially great, but great shots throughout

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