First of all I wish to thank my many climbing partners over the years. These lists and stories would not be possible without a trusted friend on the other end of the rope.
I don’t believe in a pre-climber age for myself. I finally got to use ropes and gear at age 9 or so. It was a relief to be able to protect the crazy antics I had done as an even smaller child. I was the kid way up in the tree. Confidence wasn’t strong in me then though. I learned from books mostly. I had no upper body strength as a lad, so when I got the training and gear, I aid climbed mostly. No rock shoes for years meant 5.7 was scary, and it took many years before I did my first lead at that grade. After graduating high school in ’81, I got my first pair of rock shoes and took up free-climbing in earnest. I moved to Mt Hood the next year and re-established my passion for the high peaks. I came to realize how climbing would drive my life. A monster traverse of the Cascade Volcanoes, followed by a few summers in Yosemite, with winters in Tahoe, confirmed that the big routes were where I wanted to be. I willed and worked my way through many of them, always pushing myself to be my best. A few accidents/injuries tempered my ambitions. My carpentry career led me back to Portland in 86, Seattle in 2000, where I currently reside.
Climbing isnt everything to me though. I value being a good father, mate, worker, friend, and citizen. I have recently become a political activist. I urge you to get involved in your community. Please make a difference.
I had always kept a book-type journal about my climbing. I started keeping a digital one in the early 2000s, which led to launching the 1st waynessite in 2006. I was afraid I didnt have enough content, which led to , of course, way too much content. Later(2009), I started this wordpress, streamlined the extras (Thanks Jon), and now I use it mostly for trip reports. Just remember, dreams can happen.
Here are a few trips/experiences that had a deep effect on me.
1973 Roped climbing at Broughtons Bluff, I asked a party to borrow a harness and a tope rope.
1976 Mt St. Helens age 13
1978 Beacon Rock, first multi-pitch
1982 The Cascade Enchainment: Jefferson to Broken top. 7 summits
1982 South Face Washingtons Column, on 19th birthday, Prow solo in 83.
1983 Zodiac, El Cap, the Nose in 85
1985 Ice 9, Mt Mendel
1986, January injury left me with a lot to think about for 9 months.
86 N Face of Grand, Andromeda, and New Route in Blogett in 1 road trip
88 Guiding 2 trips on Denali, one of them from the Ruth
88 Complete N Ridge of Stuart, Discovered the North Cascades, sigh…….
89 FA,Dragons Of Eden, Dragontail. PFA, Solid gold soon after.
Early 90s-current, Raised 2 daughters
93 FA, Arachnophobia, Mt Hood: My first Black Spider adventure.
94 N Butt, Mt Fury, discovered the Pickets, long sigh….
96 Sunshine route on Snowpatch, world-beater classic.
96 N Face, Mt Temple, phew.
97 South Face Artesonraju, A month in Peru
2000, Attempt N Ridge of K2, to 7000m. Moved to Seattle.
02 Original West Ridge Mt Hunter , to 11k
02 Direct N Butt. Bear Mt.
03 FA, The Southern Pickets Traverse.
03 FA, NW Ridge Mt Logan. Solo
04 Ham and Eggs, Mooses Tooth
04 FA, The Sawtooth Traverse, 20 summits/pinnacles
05 FA, The Northern Pickets Traverse.
06 FA, Mongo Ridge, West Fury. Solo
07 FA, N. Dihedral Direct , Snow Creek Wall, in winter conditions.
09 Benetiers rt, El Mocho, Patagonia
09 FA, Gran Torino, Dome Peak
10 FA, East Face, Pyramid Peak
10 Scenic Cruise, Black Canyon
10 Index Traverse
10 Beckey- Choinard, S.Howser Tower
11 Springbok Arete, Les Cornes.
11 Mummy 234, Hyalite
12 The Replicant, Mt Rundle
12 The Fine Line, Elephants Perch
12 The Hitch Hiker, S. Early Winter Spire
13 Goats Beard, Goat Wall
13 Oz/Positive Vibrations, Needles
13 The Passenger, SEWS
14 Rainbow Serpent, Ghost
14 The Silmaril, Zion
15 Weeping Pillar/Hydrophobia/Curtain Call
15 5 Desert Towers
15 Ellen Pea rt, Supercave
15 Der Sportsman, Prussik Peak
15 Twisted, Superbok, Mixed Master, and Bourgeau Left
’16 5 great routes Red Rocks
’17 . Amazing Ice season 16+ routes 80 pitches
’17 11 routes at Red Rocks
’17 3 Utah Towers and Indian Creek: Sister Superior, 3 Gossips, Long Dong
’17 Liberty Traverse and Big Kangaroo
’17 Slesse Traverse attempt
’18 Mighty Mouse
’18 Woman of Mountain Dreams, Mt Wilson
’19 South Africa
’19 Arrowhead Arete and Astroman