Dairyland, S. Nesakwatch Spire 10d, 6p

Last weekend sent Lane, Doug, and I to the Canada to have a go at an obscure, yet outstanding climb high in the Cascade Range of British Columbia. It was Lanes idea to explore this area that none of us had been to prior, and what fun it was doing Dairyland in what started out to be soggy conditions. We spent 5 hours Saturday going up the 4k+’ vertical approach(ugh), and enjoyed the climb on a brisk Sunday. The climb starts off great, then has a blah pitch. Once that section is over, the crux, and last pitches are quite spectacular. You and your partner WILL be doing the rock, paper, scissors thing for the $ pitch! The whole package of being up in the mountains, good climbing and great friends embody the very reasons I pursue such a strenuous and risky sport. It’s great to be so excited about it even after 40+ years of climbing. It is however strange to run low on quality routes on my (local)to-do list, but fun to explore the unheralded and seldom visited routes!

Special thanks to Doug for providing the SUV for the drive that ended on a pretty rough road. Additional beta in Blake’s new book Cascade Rock.



click photos to enlarge or else they will stay small. forever.




  1. Ryan Chaffee says

    Voice from your past! We met in Portland and taught 3 Pathfinders how to climb. We hung out and climbed out by Estacada and Rocky Butte. I lived on Stark street. After finishing college I moved to California to find work. That didn’t happen! Moved to Rochester NY to find work. That didn’t happen! Joined the Air Force in 1991 and went to Japan for two years, came back to North Carolina at Pope Air Force base for the remainder of my enlistment. Returned to Portland/ Vancouver in 1997. I have been running a small home delivery service for the last 20 yesrs.

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