Woman of Mountain Dreams – Red Rocks ’18

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Ironically, she is probably dreaming of the city at this point.

This is a story of a great long weekend trip to Red Rocks that ended in me getting beat up by an amazing route!!!

10-12 Willow Springs 5p to 10c: Nadias 9, ragged edges 8, Chicken Eruptus 10b, Left Out 10c/d, black track 9

10-13 Frogland 5.8 6p w Jenn, Eileen, John

10-14 Woman of Mt Dreams, Mt Wilson V-5.11a/b 17p w/Jenn

Right out of the gate, I found the most sandbagged 5.9 for my sweetie and our 2 other friends. Nadias 9 is a consensus 5.10 on Mt Project and a stiff one at that, we elected to pass on p2.

Ragged Edges, Chicken Eruptus, Left Out, and Black Track rounded out this amazing “warm up day”!

Frogland, Glad to have gone early to avoid crowds, fun route and glad we took it “easy” this day because we stuck with our plan of going big the next!

The Dream! (of Mountain Woman), is just that, if huge and amazing routes are your thing. From my very first trip to RR (1997), I had picked out this route as the biggest, proudest  line in the whole area. Was it going to be quality though? Mixed reviews on mt project left me pessimistic.

For 12 straight hours, it greatly exceed my expectations! It was more sustained, steep, and quality than I had imagined. I did spend extra energy being cold, and nervous. The route comes at you and never lets up. Once a ways up it, you must fight your way out of it. Good luck getting to the top before dark. We had gps in case we didn’t, but we got all the way to the creek at dark. Still a long way to go finishing up the 20 hour effort. I was so worked and tired that I slipped between 2 boulders and messed up 3 fingers on my left hand. Though beat and bloody, I felt so lucky to be with a gal that plans trips like this, and has the trust and gusto to get to the top of some of the most amazing climbs I have done. It was our 4th grade V together!! One of my all time favorite climbs to boot.

Eric and Lucie report 2008

Dow report summit post 2013

Riley Rice report

Laurel Arndt has the better description on the Mt project comments. The comments about seriousness are legit, the reports about looseness, not so much. I think the route is getting cleaned up.

 

 

Comments

  1. marcus says

    Wayne we spoke briefly when you were out to dinner (w Jenn?) about W Face Sloan in winter last year. Turns out theres at least 2, maybe more parties who have tried that thing too. Flying out to Vegas in a few days to try WOMD and psyched that you’ve given it the thumbs up! Big fan of the blog, check out my buddy’s topo of the climb http://rjrice.com/trs/red-rock-17/

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