California ’19


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Lane and I got down to the Sierras again this year, ticking off some old school classics at Lovers Leap, Toulomne Meadows, and the legendary Calaveras Dome.

We began our long weekend with Surrealist Pillar direct, finishing with the impressive Hospital Corner. What a great link-up. We wished it were cooler enough to finish with Tombstone or Travelers, but when the sun came around it was oppressive.

I had yet to visit the newly settled Mike and Britne in their new life just outside of Sonora. They stay in a cute ranch together with the mighty beagle known as Chief. We all headed to the Grotto crag nearby and really enjoyed basalt splitters until the sun made that too tough again. Unfortunately, one of our party slipped on the descent trail, and sustained a tib-fib fracture. Heal up fast Brits!

Next Lane and I headed to Toulomne and checked out Dozier Dome, a relatively recent addition to the knobby slabs that frequent Toulomne Meadows. Starting with the 4 star Felsic, then Cheetos and Everclear, and the dastardly Plutonics, rounded out a slabby yet fun day

Crescent Arch was dry! We had a look at it last trip here when it was wet. Glad we hit it dry because it was brutal, and strenuous to lead as is. Enjoyable in the end though.

Wall of the Worlds on Calaveras Dome. Wow, what a climbers climb, and one of the best crack climbs ever! It felt like an expert route setter put this one up. Right from the start it gets thin, then opens up to ring locks, then off hand, all of it exciting, doable movement, with rests in between the tough sections. Then the traverse gets interestingly harder as you go along, climaxing in a wild undercling to flare section. SO good, then the route goes to pure fun after that. We only went as far as far as the top of the Mexican Flake, we had a plane to catch that evening. I’m always impressed with the climbing available in California! I’m grateful for living there for 4 years in the 80s, and several trips each decade since. Thanks again to our great host Michael, Britne, and Chief. Thanks also to Lane, and Sterling Ropes.

7-4 Surr. Direct, Hospital Corner, Lovers Leap 5p 10b w/lane

7-5 Grotto  5p to 11a w/ Mike Brit , lane

7-6 Felsic, Cheetos and Everclear, Plutonics Dozier Dome 7p to 10b r w/Lane

7-7 Crescent Arch, Daff Dome 7p 10b w/lane

7-8 Wall of the Worlds, Calaveras Dome 7p 10c w/lane




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