First of all I wish to thank my many climbing partners/supporters over the years. These lists and stories would not be possible without a trusted friend on the other end of the rope.
Ever the explorer, I don’t believe in a pre-climber age for myself. I finally got to use ropes and gear at age 9 or so. It was a relief to be able to protect the crazy antics I had done as an even smaller child. I was the kid way up in the tree. Confidence wasn’t strong in me then though. I learned from books mostly. I had no upper body strength as a lad, so when I got the training and gear, I aid climbed mostly. No rock shoes for years meant 5.7 was scary, and it took many years before I did my first lead at that grade. After graduating high school in ’81, I got my first pair of rock shoes and took up free-climbing in earnest. I moved to Mt Hood the next year and re-established my passion for the high peaks. I came to realize how climbing would drive my life. A monster traverse of the Cascade Volcanoes, followed by a few summers in Yosemite, with winters in Tahoe, confirmed that the big routes were where I wanted to be. I willed and worked my way through many of them, always pushing myself to be my best. A few accidents/injuries tempered my ambitions. My carpentry career led me back to Portland in 86, Seattle area in 2000, where I currently reside.
Climbing isnt everything to me though. I value being a good father, mate, worker, friend, and citizen. I have recently become a political activist. I urge you to get involved in your community. Please make a difference.
I had always kept a book-type journal about my climbing. I started keeping a digital one in the early 2000s, which led to launching the 1st waynessite in 2006. I was afraid I didnt have enough content, which led to , of course, way too much content. Later(2009), I started this wordpress, streamlined the extras (Thanks Jon), and now I use it mostly for trip reports.
Here are a few trips/experiences that had a deep effect on me.
1973 Roped climbing at Broughtons Bluff, I asked a party to borrow a harness and a tope rope.
’76 Mt St. Helens age 13
’78 Beacon Rock, first multi-pitch
’82 The Cascade Enchainment: Jefferson to Broken top. 7 summits
1982 South Face Washingtons Column, on 19th birthday, Prow solo in 83.
’83 Zodiac, El Cap, the Nose in 85
’85 Ice 9, Mt Mendel
’86, January injury left me with a lot to think about for 9 months.
’86 N Face of Grand, Andromeda, and New Route in Blogett in 1 road trip
’88 Guiding 2 trips on Denali, one of them from the Ruth
’88 Complete N Ridge of Stuart, Discovered the North Cascades, sigh…….
’89 FA,Dragons Of Eden, Dragontail. PFA, Solid gold soon after.
Early 90s, Raised 2 daughters
’93 FA, Arachnophobia, Mt Hood: My first Black Spider adventure.
’94 N Butt, Mt Fury, discovered the Pickets, long sigh….
’96 Sunshine route on Snowpatch, world-beater classic.
’96 N Face, Mt Temple, phew.
’97 South Face Artesonraju, A month in Peru
2000, Attempt N Ridge of K2, to 7000m. Moved to Seattle.
’02 Original West Ridge Mt Hunter , to 11k
’02 Direct N Butt. Bear Mt.
’03 FA, The Southern Pickets Traverse.
’03 FA, NW Ridge Mt Logan. Solo
’04 Ham and Eggs, Mooses Tooth
’04 FA, The Sawtooth Traverse, 20 summits/pinnacles
’05 FA, The Northern Pickets Traverse.
’06 FA, Mongo Ridge, West Fury. Solo
’07 FA, N. Dihedral Direct , Snow Creek Wall, in winter conditions.
’09 Benetiers rt, El Mocho, Patagonia
’09 FA, Gran Torino, Dome Peak
’10 FA, East Face, Pyramid Peak
’10 Scenic Cruise, Black Canyon
’10 Index Traverse
’10 Beckey- Choinard, S.Howser Tower
2-11 Hyalite+Cody Trip
’11 Springbok Arete, Les Cornes.
’11 Mummy 234, Hyalite
’12 The Replicant, Mt Rundle
’12 The Fine Line, Elephants Perch
’12 The Hitch Hiker, S. Early Winter Spire
’13 Goats Beard, Goat Wall
’13 Oz/Positive Vibrations, Needles
’13 The Passenger, SEWS
’14 Rainbow Serpent, Ghost
’19 Colorado Ice
’19 South Africa
’19 Arrowhead Arete and Astroman
’19 Ziggy Stardust, Mt Murchison