Oregon Adventure Climbing

 

Oregon Adventure Climbing

Black Spider in topo.

Oregon Page
Welcome to my Oregon extreme climbing page. This  is where I learned to climb. I have a deep romance with the place as a result.
Oregon”Backwoods”climbing has a very distinct edge of adventure to it. Though it may be an acquired taste(and skillset), those who enjoy it can reap great rewards. Be careful here though , The rock isn’t always great.
Always carry extra gear to get down, and wear helmets.
           

Ice-Columbia River Gorge-the Black Dagger WI5+, FA

 Oregon and more Access Page 

Tim’s New Book!!: NW Oregon Rock Climbs 1st edition

Mt Hood Guidebook!!

tme

My Favorite Oregon Adventures:
Trout Creek
Turkey Monster    My report     Bens Red Bull Report
Rabbit Ears
Steins Pillar
St Peters Dome
Monkey Face
Beta: – Find The New I-rock Topo!
Portland
Rock
Beacon
Beacon Rock Stories
Abraxas- the Monument
Picnic Lunch Wall
Ice Climbing in the Gorge (When and if)
Mt. Hood: OPB Special
The Black Spider, it is a 1000’ East facing(!) wall, must be cold

The Pencil, n.face, Nt Hood

Arachnophobia direct, Black Spider

3 Monkeys, Black Spider
Illumination Rock-Some of the best mixed climbing on the west coast.

Rime Dog trip report

SW Ridge in summer.

SE Butt in summer

illumination-rock-12-023

Steele Cliff -mt Hood

Glacier Caving
Razor Blade Pinnacle
Lamberson Butte
Wolf Rock –Jeez!
Opal Rock, vast potential

TMGuides Cascade Classics
The North cirque of Thielsen is very beautiful!
Oregon Pinnacles Page
 Peters Dome bit:
It was June of 94, right in the middle of my divorce. I went on a series of near suicidal climbing trips to test my mortality. An avalanche ridden solo on Johannesburg, an 80 foot unbelayed fall off Wind mt. .Eventually a solo of St Peter’s dome was the only success on the trilogy of trauma. The Dome was a great climb. Finding the start and good anchors was a challenge. When I got to the start ledge I was greeted by a selection of railroad spikes . They came in handy for the belay and one of my first aid placement. Working my way up on bugaboos exclusively, I was convinced for a long time that I was off route. There were no pin scars  to be seen. I later realized that an entire layer of rock had worn off since the last ascent in the 70s. Watching the blocks shift as I pounded, I could see how this happened. After a short free finish to the crux pitch, I found the belay sings rotted off the bolts and sitting on the ledge with the rap ring still through it. The traverse was exposed yet easy . The final pitch was difficult to find and very loose, When the angle eased off it became a foot thick carpet of moss. I tunneled under it for holds until it could support my weight. The summit was exhilarating and a forest had grown there that wasn’t in the old time photos I had seen. The register was a fascinating history of  those who dared the venture. As time wore on, I copied all the entries and enjoyed this amazing and exclusive summit . The descent was uneventful until I heard voices in the forest across from me. It seemed Bud Young was leading a party on the Mystery Trail. What an unlikely party we had at the saddle. Truly a bright spot in a difficult part of my life.
Part of a Mazama Annual Journal.

Update On St.Peters Dome!!The Big SPD got its (approx,) 20th Ascent!! Here is the Trip Report on Cascade Climbers!

Dave Jensen Photo Of SPD

Right before Christmas in 2005 The Columbia River Gorge became windy and cold enough to freeze its many waterfalls. One of the unclimbed prizes was a route behind Ainsworth state park. It  had seen many strong attempts, including one where Bill Price and I reached within 30 feet of the top.
During the brief 05 cold spell I looked at the route through binoculars, only to see Marcus Donaldson about to finally be the first to succeed on the amazing route.
That left only one unclimbed route to do: The Black Dagger (photo).

Ice Dec. 2005 040
I rushed back to Portland to tell my friend Lane of our new plan. It included him buying new ropes , and us leaving at 4:00 am to try this extremely steep and exposed water course. As you can see the ice cicles do not reach the bottom of the cliff. In complete darkness I led up the loose rock and moss to the right . The way left evidence of previous attempts both to the right and straight on. A steep mixed traverse allowed me to reach the ice proper . With Lane and I committed now , we struggled up its overhangs and busted away the many smaller icicles that impeded progress. Most waterfall ice climbs are tucked away in corners or gullies. The Dagger is out on a prow, offering a steep and tremendously exposed position. 3 wild  pitches left us feeling like the climb had given us a tough go, but at the top we found the easy looking finish to be very tiring.
Reaching the top was so much more than a consolation for missing out on Ainsworth. We both agreed it was perhaps the best ice either of us had climbed. Our joy was cut short however on our last rappel down when one of Lane’s new ropes got stuck. Going with our new-found luck though , He got it back days later when the pillars melted away.
Lane confided when he took the picture from the freeway, that he may not have been willing to try this route if he had previously seen it!

Oregon has a surprising amount of adventure climbing, as well as sport climbing. It is conveniently located between other great states for climbing. Often overlooked as a result, it does make a great place to live and play. Enjoy Oregon !!

1

Wayne's site

Black Spider in topo. The Center Drip, Black Spider, Mt Hood

Oregon Page
Welcome to my Oregon extreme climbing page. This  is where I learned to climb. I have a deep romance with the place as a result.
Oregon”Backwoods”climbing has a very distinct edge of adventure to it. Though it may be an acquired taste(and skillset), those who enjoy it can reap great rewards. Be careful here though , The rock isn’t always great.
Always carry extra gear to get down, and wear helmets.
           

Ice-Columbia River Gorge-the Black Dagger WI5+, FA Black Dagger

 Oregon and more Access Page 

Tim’s New Book!!: NW Oregon Rock Climbs 1st edition

Mt Hood Guidebook!!

tme Monster and Rabbit Ears

My Favorite Oregon Adventures:
Trout Creek
Turkey Monster    My report
Rabbit Ears
Steins Pillar
St Peters Dome
Monkey Face
Beta: – Find The New I-rock Topo!
Portland
Rock
Beacon
Beacon Rock Stories
Abraxas- the Monument
Picnic Lunch Wall
Ice Climbing in the Gorge

View original post 826 more words

North Dihedral Direct 2007

Since I am not climbing much, I have been posting photos and stories of old first ascents of mine that have lost the photos on the original posts. This is an fa on Snow Creek Wall that may not have happened if the White Slabs route hadn’t already had a party on  it. Peter left a hint about the N. Dihedral, so I threw in a bit of rock gear and the rest is history, hope you enjoy , and stay flexible in your plans, Wayne

 

Saturday(Feb 7-2007) Gary Yngve and I,Wayne Wallace, climbed the thin line left of White Slabs route on Snow Creek Wall. It went in 5 long pitches and was extremely difficult.The route got gradually harder as we went, which helped because we were both off-the-couch. The initial 2 pitches went up fantastic thin ribbons up ramps and micro gulleys. Though thin,hard,and awkward they entertained us for the first 120 meters immensely. At times the ice was 4 inches wide, half inch thick!They ended up in a wide curtain that felt very thick though an inch and a half deep.I ran this out 100 feet to reach the stance below the overhanging ice crux pillar.
The ice pillar was short but extremely strenuous due to the overhanging angle. After that we entered a Scottish style ice gulley, more fun, though Gary had to relieve himself midway while following.
Pitch 4 went up thin ice in the dihedral until the ice ran out then became very difficult dry tooling in a long sketchy lead. At times I felt I could fall and die on the runout. Pitch 5 was easier though the deep snow and short hard sequences drained any energy we may have had available. Topping out after 8 hard hours we reveled in the glow of our first climb together.
Hats off to Peter for dropping the hint of this climb,and Rat and Caps for exploring to make this an enticing prospect and wonderful testpiece.

I am reluctant to give it grades as it may be fatter or thinner when another party does it.. but when we did it it went a little like this.
P1; m4 wi3 thin connecting ribbons
P2: m5 wi3+(R) Thin! Belay at top is amazing!
P3 : wi5- short overhanging pillar followed by scottish gulley
P4 : m6 wi4(R) disappearing thin ice to hard corner-dry
P5: m3 wi3 energy gobbling friggin around
Overall: IV-WI5-M6-R 300m, Placed 4 pins on 3 pitches,I believe. This is the first route to the right of Outer Space.
It was just my kind of route with so much variety. A little piece of climbing heaven in a spectacular-historic location.
Glad you enjoyed the tr, I enjoyed the other fantastic ones on this site for sure!

Thanks< Wayne and Gary

From Gary: Wow, I am f’n thrashed. I was getting over a cold, and I think the cold just came back for an encore. But the climb was worth it. I had a great time climbing with Wayne. Even though I’ve chatted with him at Pub Clubs, read about his exploits, etc., I never really had an idea how tough he is until he ropegunned me up these five pitches.

new stuff 239

NDD on left, White Slabs on right

White Slabs on the right, Northern Dihedrals Direct on the left. The inset offers a little better view inside the dihedrals.

P1010732

We couldn’t see the wall until we were roughly right across it and we had gotten above the clouds. A party was at the base of White Slabs, which may have made it easier for Wayne to get stoked about the left route.

new stuff 241

The first pitches consisted of thin runnels with the occasional mixed move.

For the most part, the belays were pretty sheltered
Wayne forgot to mention that on the 2nd pitch, he had to downclimb 40 feet to retrieve the first piece he placed (a gold camalot) so he could protect the moves to come.

The crux of the 2nd pitch was an off-balance dog-leg runnel of thin ice.

new stuff 244new stuff 243

The ice got thicker, and Wayne belayed below the base of the pillar.
Wayne was happy to sink an 18cm screw to the hilt!

qP3wayne1

The ice steepened considerably, and was thin in spots.
Above the ice was short snow slog and then a sweet narrow icy gully.

P1010741

Wayne enjoyed the good ice while it lasted.

new stuff 245

Then the mixed climbing became delicate, then desperate.

new stuff 247
I flailed up the mixed moves, slipping a few times and happily hooking a fixed pin, all while wondering how the hell Wayne managed to lead it with the potential consequences of a nasty fall. The mixed moves were full-body workouts.

P1010747

The last pitch certainly wasn’t a gimme. Some fun mixed moves, thigh-deep snow groveling, and a little bushwhacking. Capped off with a classic finish through a tunnel.

new stuff 239

NDD on left, White Slabs on right

We walked off the backside, scrambling down two short rock steps.

Canadian Rockies 2-’16

Thankfully I had climbed to my hearts desire on my last trip. 4 big routes in 5 days will satisfy your ambitions for a while. Now though, I really needed a vacation as much as another Canadian Rockies ice climbing trip. It just so happened that the temperatures skyrocketed to the point that smashed records for mid February. Welcoming a laid-back trip, I felt fortunate to have developed an actual social network that was a great way to spend time between great climbs. It takes a while to partnerships and friendships in climbing to the point where you almost always have options. It is a game of give and take. Having great partners like Steve, Bob, etc., can really make the difference in attaining your dreams. I even got to stay with a climber that I have idolized for many years. It takes work to maintain good friendships, but the rewards speak for themselves. Huge thanks for a great week to the following folk: Steve, Sarah, Seth, Raphael (and wife Vera), Tomas, and Andres (and wife).

 

So lets talk climbing!!!! We relied on the Ghost (and Bob’s great truck,) twice for solid, and dryer ice, and it paid off with the beautiful climb called Fang and Fist. It is a 3-4 pitch route that gradually gets steeper until the top which almost overhangs!! So fun, yet so far back there on tough 4×4 conditions. Later in the week we still found dry conditions on Wuthering Heights. We got in a couple of great mixed crag days at Haffner and the latest rage area: The Playground delivered some awesome dry tooling! So fun there, yet manufactured /drilled holes make it an ethical dilemma for some I’m sure. The warm temps continued, yet we still were able to stay dry on Cascade Kronenburg, and finally got wet on the crux of Carlsberg. Things felt surprisingly safe as long as we weren’t on a slope that could avalanche. What a great week!

Look for an exciting review of the Edelrid Flycatcher and Micro Jul system soon!

“The Circumvention”, aka Fan-Wallace new mixed route

7-28-2016

Dear Alpine Mentors Community,

We regret that we have to report the tragic loss of one of our loved Alpine Mentors-AAC Pacific Northwest family members. At approximately 3:00 p.m. PT on Sunday, July 24, Laurel Fan (34) fell while ascending Serra 2 in the Waddington Range of British Columbia.

Our Alpine Mentors community is very small, and we are deeply saddened by this terrible tragedy. Our hearts are with Laurel’s friends and family.
We are grateful that the two surviving party members were able to draw upon their experience and competence to execute what was a difficult descent after losing one member of their team and a good part of the equipment that climber was carrying.

We are truly saddned and will keep Laurel in our hearts forever.

Yours,
Steve, Eva and the entire Alpine Mentors family

P1170105

1-10-16  Source Lake area, Alpental

There we were in thick fog, trying to find a thin, mixed route that had not been climbed before. We were lucky to find the start after wandering back and forth in the deep, and steep snow. I figured it would be a 2 pitch affair, so I asked Laurel to lead the first. (p1)She had a real treat going up the thin mixed corner on cams, pitons, and a screw. After 20 meters she stopped at an offwidth crack. I would recommend to future parties to finish the 1st pitch with the wide crack, so as not to (possibly lead fall, and) land on your belayer. There is a fixed pin there now just above where she belayed from and no wide gear is needed with the gear found in the chockstones deep in this classic section. (p2)After grunting up the short wide crack, I pushed the belay up to a place where one could watch the leader for the last pitch. Once again Laurel was game to swap leads, and get after the steep finish! (p3)Thin, rotten ice led around the detached ice candle. She opted to do an exciting mixed finish to the right rather than try to campus up the rotten candle. What an effort she paid, right up to the finish, where she came off before she could grab the M5+ tree limb at the very top! After regaining the overhanging block, she then pulled to the top of her first, first ascent.  Nice work, Laurel! The Alpine Mentors are proud of you.

   I had been eyeing this line during many prior visits to the Alpental Valley. We in Seattle are lucky to have fairly reliable ice venues so close to town. Its nice to be one hour away from such fun.

Specifics: “The Circumvention”, aka. Fan-Wallace is located above Source Lake area, on Bryant Buttress. To the right of Flow Reversal, and Resistance Is Futile, yet left of where people skin up to Chair Peak. Best approached from the Flow Reversal area, up and right, reaching a sweet thin gully with turf hooks and thin ice. When it gets steep, there could be an exciting direct finish to the pitch, or the obvious off-width crack to the left. We did it in 3 short pitches, but best to do it in 2. Move the belay high enough to see the leader either finish on the ice daggers, or the exciting “Fan” finish to the steep ramp up and  right. 2-60m ropes just reach the bottom in 1 rap.  Pins, stoppers,cams, screws and specters are all handy.

Other Snoqualmie Fun:

Snoqualmie mt. N. face part 1

Snoqualmie Ice part 2

Kurt Hicks Topo

Mt proj

Gallery, click to enlarge, some photos by Laurel.

 

P1170018

Inspired gadgets: Firn Line Designs

How I found out about Firn Line Designs:

I was headed down Silken Falls after getting my revenge on Alex in Wonderland (aka: Climb Above Dribbles). It was such a great route and tribute to the genius of Alex Lowe himself. As I was rapping past another party, I was (visually) struck by the gear on the harness of the party leader, Derek. He had on screw protectors that looked easy to remove while on lead. He also showed me the simplest, most compact v-threader I had ever seen. Easy to use, light and compact my 2 improvements would be to make the color brighter for ease of locating it on a crowded harness, and ease of clipping it in and out. Of course I asked all about the manufacture, and it turned out to be a small business from a climber in my home state of Oregon. I contacted Terry and he sent out his whole line of products to me, and a new gadget the we developed together! I was impressed with the minimalism, and function of all the items.

After purchasing the items, I got the chance to try out my new gadget designed to use carabiners instead of the plastic ice clippers. It worked very well except that I need to find some bigger carabiners the size of Ice Clippers. I am sure that most of these items would be a great addition to any ice gear arsenal. Happy climbing!

Ice clip prototype:

simple, make in different sizes?

simple, make in different sizes?

Harness goes behind the biner.

Harness goes behind the biner.

Maybe a little wider of a model would get it past the gear loop?

Maybe a little wider of a model would get it past the gear loop? The biners  never shift once in place.

Canada Ice 12-’15

P1160712.jpgI got real lucky. The job completely stalled out and the Rockies ice routes came into great shape. Lane and I joined our friends Doug and Moira, in the Field area. I had huge plans to try as many big routes on my list as possible. We “warmed” up on Twisted, a route that just started forming up a few years ago. It was in tougher shape than last year, but such a good route. Lane and I went for Super Bock the next day, only to find 4 parties on route , 2 of them ahead of us. It was too cold to stand around, so I tried to find a separate line next to the other parties to keep moving. The last party was not excited about my plan,and went so far as to call me “rude”. Well, the other parties jumped to my support, and even said the route was over their heads. The climb was in very difficult shape for sure. It was dripping, and the ice was a bit rotten. We did it anyways though, and were impressed with how long and steep it was.

Next up was a route that I have been wanting to try for 20+ years, because it never comes in shape. Mixed Master is one the best routes imaginable. 7 great pitches long and gets difficult at the top. I cant describe how happy Doug and I were. We were in party mode all day long!

Lane had been keen for Bourgeau Left. Due to the cold temps, another sunny route sounded pretty good. Once again there was another party ahead that were not impressed with the conditions, so they bailed. Up I went into a very wet and strange ice crux. At the top I was drenched, but happy to have had such determination and luck to get up 4 amazing routes in 5 days!! Next up, Doug and I went after my 2nd try of French Reality, but it was just too cold and the snow too deep without flotation. Off to Haffner to pad the pitch count:  21 pitches in all for a great week. Thanks to Doug, and Moira for such a nice place to stay, and spend a fun New Years with. Lane for going up on short notice, and Pro Mountain Sports for the great deal on my new ropes!

Look for a product review soon from a local gear manufacture that has some interesting line of products! Firn Line Designs from Oregon is next!

Click images to enlarge

A strange, yet rewarding ice season

Self-discipline is an act of cultivation. It require you to connect today’s actions to tomorrow’s results. There’s a season for sowing a season for reaping. Self-discipline helps you know which is which.   Gary Ryan Blair

I believe in process. I believe in four seasons. I believe that winter’s tough, but spring’s coming. I believe that there’s a growing season. And I think that you realize that in life, you grow. You get better.  Steve Southerland

 

The calendar said it was winter, but the thermometer did not.
A quick vortex blew down in November and again in December that froze up many climbs. After that , it was very warm and dry for western North America. I am trying not to go down the Global Warming worm-hole but after this winter, its tough not to. Fewer routes meant more people competing for them. It took more planning and flexibility to have success. Nonetheless, I made the most of it with my extended time away from work.
     I had decided to get real serious this season. I trained, networked, made a list of routes, and went after them as I could. It really paid off, but it felt like I could have done so much more! On 3 trips totaling 4 weeks, I did 60  pitches, most above wi5 and m6. I enjoyed climbing such great routes such as Curtain Call, Hydrophobia, Upper Weeping Wall, Climb above Dribbles, Avalanche Gulch, Cascade Kronenburg, and many more. Having some time in between routes to rest was a luxury I had as well. My most recent trip was with Alpine Mentors NW Group. We had a fun week visiting the Icefields Parkway, Field, the Ghost, and even the Stanley Headwall! What a great idea to help bring up the next generation of alpinists in this area.
   I am now preparing for a trip to the Utah desert. I am using the list idea again, since we are short on time. I expect to be back at work by mid-march, and the road tripping will come to an end. It has been a great run so far.
   Here is a journal breakdown:

12-9-14 Feeding Cat, Matrix 3 p to wi4 m5 w/ Ari, Kristen

12-10-14 Scepter WI 5 1p+lap w/Ari, K

12-12-14 Climb Above Dribbles, aka Alex in Wonderland III+ Wi5-M6 w Keenan

12-13-14 Monkey Ass Wall WI5 1p w/Jeff, Nelson

12-14-14 Panama Canal M9 with Marko, Ben, Bekah

12-15-14 Champagne Sherbet, Slot 2p WI4, w Kristen

12-16-14 Avalanche Gulch 5p Wi5 m5, w Keenan

1-2-15 Chockstone Falls Wi4 3p variation w joe

1-9-15 Grotto Falls 4p to wi4, m6 w steve

1-10-15 Marble Canyon 3p to wi4 w Nic, Stuart

1-12-15 Sniveling to Weeping Pillar V-wi6 6p w/Nic

1-15-15 Hydrophobia V-WI 5+ 3p w tim, andy

1-17-15 Twisted III-wi5 3p w/ Steve, Bill

1-20-15 Curtain Call IV-WI6 w/ Tyler, Nic

2-15-15 My Daddys a Psycho 3p WI5 w/ Andy D.

2-17-15 Carlsburg, Cascade Kronenburg 6p to m5, WI6 w/ Alex, Andy

2-19-15 Beowulf 4p wi4 w Ryan

2-21-15 Haffner 3p to m6

2-22-15 2p of French Reality w alex wi4

Enjoy some pictures:

 

Curtain Call, etc

Just getting back from a spectacular trip to the Canadian Rockies, I am struck with the following trends:

I have enjoyed doing the opposite of the “Smash and Grab” trips. Taking 2 week trips allows me to rest between body destroying leads. Particularly since I just had orthoscopic repairs done on my knee a few weeks ago. “Relax and Acquire” is nice but has led to another trend that I don’t enjoy.

I have found it difficult to go out on these trips with a dedicated partner. It is probably a combination of the various issues such as: Who has that kind of time available? I have a particular agenda/ability. I am a jerk?, etc. I have adjusted to this trend though by lining up “play dates” with various partners.

Global warming is here. Ice climbing is barely surviving thanks to the vortexes that come down each year, but the reach of warming is dramatic and brings a sense of doom to our environment. For now it is nice to climb in more comfortable temperatures.

It is good for me to make lists and be organized. The piece of mind and accomplishments it brings is very satisfying. I still haven’t let it sink in that I did 4 of my dream routes in 1 amazing trip. Huge thanks to Steve, Nic, Tyler, Stuart, Bill, Tim, and Andy!

Appropriately, I ended the trip with Curtain Call. A legendary route that has inspired me to push past intimidating structures and reports of people bailing days prior due to lack of pro. Boldness on our part paid off. Tyler did a steady job pushing through bad fins at the end of his lead. The finish had a few scary things going on: Daggers over the belay, threading the needle between features, where a back-off sling leads to terrible ice. I traversed a few more feet to the left, and found better ice. It led to a couple of scary horizontal cracks in the structure, which later made good foot ledges! Swing and pull like crazy to the finish. What a route! Here are some pictures of Twisted and Curtain Call:

 

 

Weeping Pillar, and Hydrophobia

I sent Steve a list of 20 routes that I most wanted to climb in the Canadian Rockies. Ticking one or 2 off each season is an ideal way to feel good about a given ice season. He told me that over half of the climbs on the list were now known to be in good condition. After a couple of warm-up days and I roped Nic into meeting me for a romp to Icefields Parkway for a run at Weeping Pillar. When we got there we found 2 parties with the same idea. The upper party bailed after the 1st pitch of Weeping Pillar route. Large daggers and the heat of the bright sun sent them back to the car. The other party was a late arrival that knew today wasnt the day to crowd the climb. So up we went, getting soaked in the runny, steep ice. I chose the right side of the Pillar to avoid weird ice formations, and provide great cave belays to protect belayers from the funky ice falling from above. What an incredible experience this climb was, we could not contain our excitement from this big, and amazing route. We laughed and reveled about it until we parted ways again the next day.

2 rest days later, and I was able to talk Tim and Andy into driving into the Waiparous Valley for our first time. Hydrophobia was the route on the list that they saw as the most interesting. That was to prove to be a great call on our part. We did the obligatory strategy session with the Colonel the night before, and were on our way out at 430 am. We arrived at first light donning chains for the last few miles. We had the bare minimum vehicle and chains to get in the 4wd roads. The suburban made it though with a few rally points and shoveling! Thanks Andy for the great driving job. Hydrophobia is the most visually striking route I can think of. It looks like something from a comic or fantasy book. The eye struggles to recognize scale and steepness in its bizarre layout. As an ice route, it is in a class of its own. It frequently has great ice, and is seldom drippy. We caught it in perfect temps(32f), and had mostly great ice. The only issue was the winds kicked up great amounts of spindrift snow. We were also grateful to have borrowed Steves 70 meter ropes for the long, pumpy leads. We all went back tired and happy from one of the best climbs imaginable. Huge thanks to Steve for every thing he provides to the community.

I just finished the trip, here is the damage:

1-9-15 Grotto Falls 4p to wi4, m6 w steve

1-10-15 Marble Canyon 3p to wi4 w Nic, Stuart

1-12-15 Sniveling to Weeping Pillar V-wi6 6p w/Nic

1-15-15 Hydrophobia V-WI 5+ 3p

1-17-15 Twisted III-wi5 3p w/ Steve, Bill

1-20-15 Curtain Call IV-WI6 w/ Tyler, Nic (41p for season)

The wish list and current conditions (1-21-2015):

  • Wolf Street, thin
  • French Reality, thin
  • Red Man Soars, not sure/no
  • Amadeus, no
  • Kidd, in
  • Sacre Blue, in, avy concerns
  • Sea of Vapors, just came in, thin
  • Cryophobia, thin/no, see photos
  • Hydrophobia, in
  • Superbok, thin, in
  • Pilsner Pillar, in
  • French Maid, maybe
  • Tabernac Bowl, thin, in
  • Mixed Master, no
  • Curtain Call, in
  • Riptide,in
  • Weeping Pillar,in
  • Unicorn, no
  • Virtual Reality, no
  • Ice Nine, in
  • Bourgeau Left, in
  • Big Drip, in
  • Twisted,in
  • Cascade Kronenburg,in

Pictures! :

 

Hyalite ’14

Felt very happy to spend 8 wonderful days in Hyalite. Driving out by myself, I was lucky to produce the following:

12-9-14 Feeding Cat, Matrix 3 p to wi4 m5 w/ Ari, Kristen. Matrix is so fun.

12-10-14 Scepter WI 5 1p+lap w/Ari, K. Hooked out,

12-12-14 Silken to Climb Above Dribbles, aka Alex in Wonderland III- Wi5-M6 w/ Keenan. One of the best in Hyalite!

12-13-14 Monkey Ass Wall WI5 1p w/Jeff, Nelson. Obscure but great pitch. Thanks Nelson for trail breaking.

12-14-14 Panama Canal M8/9 with Marko, Ben, Bekah, and Mike. Fell all over it, but fun tr.

12-15-14 Champagne Sherbet, and Slot 2p WI4 w/ Kristen.Fun, long leads

12-16-14 Avalanche Gulch 5p III-Wi5 m4 w/ Keenan. Longest route in Hyalite, very fun.

I had been laid up for a month prior to this outing due to a couple of strange injuries. First I threw my back out on my last Friday before ending the Allen Brain Science Center project. I really wanted to finish that crazy building, but missed doing the finishing touches. I was due to return the following Tuesday, but poured boiling coffee on both legs.  It then took 3 weeks to recover from extensive 2nd degree burns from that fiasco. I cannot thank my very caring girl enough for her care during my recovery.

Motivated to stay longer than just during icefest, I decided to go alone and solicit various partners during my stay in Bozeman. Ari and Kristen were wonderful hosts and partners, along with Keenan being a stud for the harder routes. It was nice to have more time and take each day easier. My favorites were: Matrix, Climb above Dribbles ( aka: Alex in Wonderland: phenomenal route), and Monkey Ass Wall. The routes stayed in good shape despite warm temperatures and large crowds. I think the dry air has something to do with that.

This was my best trip to Hyalite due to attending Icefest, World Cup Competition, great climbs, and spending quality time with great people. It was great to try new gear that I got from Pro Mountain Sports, like the new Laser light Speed ice screws! Huge advance in ice anchors for sure.

Now for a few pictures!

Avalanche Gulch

Avalanche Gulch