Northwest Ice’21/22

2-1-2022 Sundance Kid wi5 x2 w/ Jenn, Carl

1-30 J-Currency, MP14 left 2p to Wi5 w/ Jenn, Christian

1-29 FMA J-Currency Mix Tape WI5, M5 x3 w/ Christian

1-27 MP14c, H202 x2 3p wi5 w/Zach

1-15,16 Dustys in and Out wi3 30m, 10 laps w Kyle M, Dave, /Jenn, Tristan

1-11 MBLI w/jenn wi4 x3

1-10 TOAC wi5 x2 w/jenn, Shiona

1-5 Shannon far left WI3

1-2 Wet Dream M5 WI3+

1-1-2022 2 minutes for Hooking 3p WI4+ w/Jeremy

12-31-21 Tears Of A Clown 35m WI5 w/John Roskelley, Ben ,Vern

12-30 Eriks m5 under mixed conditions w/Jenn

Well, what a crazy local ice season we’re having here in the Pacific Northwest! What started out as a very frustrating beginning , is ending up cruising into a long slow burn of cold temperatures, good ice, and a stunning new first/ reimagined ascent! By far one of the coolest first ascents and mixed leads that I’ve done since bring Da ruckus, is a reimagined second pitch of the notorious cable route at Banks Lake! Long ago my friend Jess and I envisioned bolts at the top and wherever else they were needed down the thin ice that dribbles down the basalt columns. I finally got around to fixing it up with Christian, it climbed so well, only needing two bolts to make it a safe lead. Besides many available top rope variations, It now has amazing access from the very top, and a new fixed rope across the middle ledge as well! All this work and play was done in tribute to fallen comrades: Jess Roskelley, and Bob Prosser.

Gear: 7 screws, 2 cams, and 2 bolts. 60m rope

The other thing I’ve come to know better is there are secret stashes of ice on the eastern side of the Cascades. The reason they need to be kept sort of secret, is they would be over run by Seattle people if it were blown up on social media. I understand and appreciate this concept so I am trying to do my part as well.

Cold, wind,and crazy weather shut me down in Lillooet, but it is in all-time shape if somebody can get up there. Squamish was the usual awesome though!!

Hydrology is again baffling at Banks Lake many routes are super dry, and others are quite fat.

I hope to extend the season for a while, but it looks like there is a warm-up coming. I’m headed up north for a few days to keep the party going. Then, it may be time to look at higher altitude things in WA after. Cheers!