The Passenger, and a call to involvement

The climbing community is exploding in numbers, but also too should be our involvement in the infrastructure and our influence. I spend most of my time pursuing my own agenda and pushed on by my “tick list”. I do try to get involved through a couple of volunteer activities, as well. Last weekend I drug Doug along into my scheme to spend Saturday working (still ongoing and needing help)on the eroded base of a prize crag in Mazama. He was promised a few pitches that day. However, he got so into the work, that we came back to task again moving huge rocks to the wall. This time we got to work with Big Givers themselves; Bryan B., Mark A, Lowell S, Jeff T, and many others. Somehow Bryan and I hadn’t met prior, but quickly formed our mutual admiration party.

For Sunday, Doug was promised a run at Bryans impressive route on South Early Winter Spires, S.E. route called: the Passenger.  In perfect weather, up at 4:30 am, we began the long day of hiking up and doing its 8 great pitches. So many memorable moves on this climb, starting with p1s undercling. Right away getting you into tricky moves, I was able to figure out the double undercling again on p2. This left Doug with the sustained p3 and its tough move at its end. I did the crux p4 in the same style falling on the 5.11 friction and aiding the 12 boulder problem. Added bolts on the 10d block mantle make the following pitch less dangerous. Further up, the spicy 5.9 section is a bit  pg rated? The rest of the climb was fun including the direct finish! The place was almost deserted too.

It was my second go at the route and I was able to eliminate a point of aid for myself and great to not have to lead all pitches too!.

Thanks to Doug, Mark, work crews making our crags better, Sterling Ropes, WCC, and the AAC for putting together this awesome weekend!

Stephs reports:

My prior ascent:

click to enlarge photos

 

 

 

 

South Africa ’19

For me, international travel is always a journey from anguish to redemption. I tend to be a rolling contradiction of enjoying my routine, yet craving adventure and uncertainty. Struggling with the idea of wandering off far away, yet always grateful for the experience during and after.  Lucky also to have an amazing girlfriend to share it with. We created a trip of a lifetime with Jenn and Lane planning the stays, and safaris, and myself planning incredible climbing outings at Waterval Boven. Our plan there was to pick the finest climbs at as many different crags as possible, and enjoy kick ass “rest days” in the wilds. We kinda nailed it.

Bouncing from place to place, this ended up being our incredible itinerary, with the last 6 days planned en-route!

5-4 fly

5-5 fly, sleep

5-6 Drive to Waterval, jet lag, stayed Troutways

5-7 6p to 10d Jenga, Dead Ant, Doom, Snakeskin Suit

5-8 5p to 10c Red Herring, Im Macho

5-9-12.  4 days of safaris, stayed @ Satari, Lower Sabie, Bergendal

5-13 8p to 11d! Women Aint Trouble, Triffids, Dendrophilia, Moondance

5-14 5p to 11a Madiba magic, Electric Ave, ENDLESS SUMMER!!, Who’s your Daddy?

5-15,16 Blydes Canyon, saw: Sudwalla Caves, The Pinnacle, Gods Window, Wonderview, Mac Mac Pools and Falls, stayed Graskopp @Sherries. Echo Caves, Sabie

5-17 5p to 10d Rainman, Ms Doubtfire, Shout at the Devil

5-18 5 p to 10c Temple of Love etc. Jenns Birthday at Lebos!

36 pitches in all! Free pdf of guidebook

5-19,20 Soweto tour, Mandela House, Apartheid Museum, drive around Jo’burg. Fly, fly

Aside from the amazing climbing I was floored by the history, and culture of the country! The past and future struggles gave me hope for humanity, and the idea of moving past racism. Overall inequality is never close to satisfaction in most societies though.  We have far still to go.

Huge thanks to : Jenn, Lane, Dyonne, Brian and Rondelle at Troutways, Gus and Alex at Roc’n Rope, Lebo’s, and the very welcoming country of South Africa.

Photos are in gallery form, click to enlarge

 

 

 

 

 

My Friend Jess

” I’m trying to figure out why this is affecting me so much” said Lane, ” I didn’t really know him that well.”

I offered in reply: ” He was one of our heroes, as were all 3 of them. They had life by the balls, and seemed like good people at heart. We never want good things to end.”

 

I hate you death, and your shocking, random inevitability.

I also must accept you as I now send a friend into your arms.

This unwelcome finish to existence, will have its day.

Goodbye Jess Roskelley 1982- 2019

 

 

We only did a few major climbs together, but we hit it off well back when Beau introduced me to his bestie: Jess. He was very young then (2011?) and looking for what he wanted to do outside of welding. All of his ideas seems great, including the exciting welding operations he did. When he told me he wanted to be a professional climber, I was excited too for that prospect. He of course had to do more difficult climbs, so his ambition fell into my plans of having good partners at my disposal. We disposed some really amazing ice in our short time together. He would outpace me and my local plans pretty quick too. I always kept in touch with him though and tried to pry him away from his amazing life.

I will miss his pictures and posts of him enjoying life with his friends and family. I will miss the possibility of spending time together. I expect to cry every time I drive through Spokane.

Replicant

Cable/Zenith

Rainbow Serpent

My deepest condolences to the people close to your Jess, David, and Hansjorg. I am glad to have met many of you, and may you have peace, and be grateful for what you were offered.

 

Jess on Rainbow

 

Flip of the switch…

…and it’s rock season!

In an abrupt and dramatic change, the deep freeze went ballistic in the other direction. With temps skyrocketing to record setting readings as high as 80f in the Puget Sound.

.umm.

This during “calendar winter”.

Thin Fingers 11a Photo Michael R.

All Index needs is a few clear days though, and yes, there is your rock season whether you’re ready or not. I was stoked to get 12 pitches in, including my first lead of Thin Fingers! I have always been spooked by this route and its ledges. Guess all that training, and ice climbing pays off. Still damp in spots, with tons of snow in places near the bases of the upper climbs!

Other favorites done:

Walking Legend, Meyah( love this one!), Compound W( in newly scrubbed shape, dirty, yet better off), Law and Order( my 5th time up it!) Tried the new, 2nd pitch of L+O, Needs a bolt or 2, will be fun!

The oil trains rolled by, then the coal trains next?

2 last issues:

Please be an advocate/activist for reducing fossil fuels, etc.

Dave E, and Sterling outright gave me 2 Photon ropes to try for ice climbing. I got to try them out at Banks, and they performed like only the best ropes would in the extremely wet and steep conditions. The dry-coat works beyond what I have experienced with new (or any) ropes.

Prior to all that, I already had invested in their heavy duty 70m Evolution rope. It is my go-to for the desert and index. With the durability, it feels a little heavier.( when did 9.8 get to feel so fat!??) They are also more expensive, but worth it if you are pushing your grade. I prefer the extra confidence and handling you will get with the lines I have tried out. Thanks also to Micheal, James, And Jenn for being awesome friends! Thanks for reading, Wayne

Also check out the 70m tope-roping going on in the left side of the Michael photo? All 4 pitches of Narrow Arrow in one mega session!

Banks Ice ’19, and what a season!

Banks Lake and old man winter eventually delivered with a vengeance. I don’t want it to ever end! We got our ice season this winter(2018/19), but it didn’t start until February!! Incredibly too, it lasted until mid-March. Leaving us adequate daylight, we reveled in pitch after pitch, ascending rarely formed climbs that one could only dream of.

For me, this incredible season was not with out struggle too. I ended up in an ambulance with severe back issues for xmas. I did manage a little time off from work though right as the lion of winter got going in February. All told, I ended up with over 70 pitches of difficult ice and mixed climbing, visiting many different areas along the way. I feel so lucky.

What a pleasure it was to end this seasonal voyage with a couple of trips to Banks Lake. Its no secret that it is one of the harder areas to be successful at. The climbs are steeper and bigger than they look. The quality if ice can be a major issue as well.

With the confidence that can only come with new ropes, (Thanks Sterling!) we set out on back to back weekends. After seeing nobody on a FAT Razorblades, we scurried off to our “warm up” route on Saturday,  and anything else our arms would allow on Sunday (Pillar 1). What an astounding adventure Razorblades presents! That start pitch is always wet, crappy ice and yet so fun and difficult. Be careful with this one!

Last weekend we set our sights on Zenith, again in much fatter shape than my previous seasons efforts. We got scooped twice on it however! The second party took pity on us though and gave us the access to this amazing waterfall that I hadn’t gotten “clean”, nor got to the top of, on my prior tries. Lane Jenn and I had a day we will never forget as it was in great condition. Sunday again, was the :whatever-was-left-of-our-arms: climbing day. Banks has such a great atmosphere, we really enjoyed the “power of place” it offers.

click image to enlarge

Local Ice ’19

A local ice season can randomly pound its way into your life. Bringing snow, cold temps, and social media reports, winter becomes impossible to ignore or resist.
Trouble is, a trip to the grocery store can be full of stress, more so trying to climb seldom formed routes in the Northwest. For those that don’t know: our local ice is a scrappy and well-earned affair that requires great patience and grit to handle less than perfect adventures. We don’t make many magazine covers in our shrubs and moss. When cold conditions happen here though, it can be a treat to explore in the back yard! Heck, I happen to prefer “difficult” ice just to keep it from being boring. More beta after photos. (Some photos by Jenn, Doug)

2-23 update: Jenn and I did a most amazing 4 pitch route at Squamish. The West Coast Ice group on facebook gave up the goods on a route called 2 Minutes For Hooking, and it proved to be a fantastic “Deep Forest” ice climb! I can’t say enough about how fun, scary, and exhilarating this route is. Too bad it didn’t photograph well.

Also THANKS to Dave with Sterling Ropes for loaning me the great Photon ropes to demo!!

 

1-13-2019 Blast Rock Wall wi3 m3 1 mile past icicle creek road closure
1-26-19 Icy BC area tr 3p to m7. Tope rope heaven
2-3-19 Rap Wall 2p to wi4r . fun, spicy first trip here, WARNING: Central Cascades Buried in snow currently
2-17 Shannon Left, center area 1 p w3 , scary climbing next to live waterfall!
2-18 Oleson Creek ice route 4p, W3+ (attempt at AST, went too far up canyon)
2-20 Loose Lady 3p W5 Fun, steep with great access.
2-21 3 Ring Circus 3p w5. We didn’t have chains so we road walked an extra 3k up to a spicy approach. Route was chandeliered and wet on p1. from top, we walked off climbers left to road. Tough day.

2-23  2 Minutes for Hooking 4p, w4+ w Jenn. One of my all time favorite ice climbs, just my kind of route. Thin, exciting, and tricky to the finish. The beta on face book is spot on:

Graham Rowbotham to West Coast Ice

Perry Beck and Graham Rowbotham climbed a route on the left side of New Delhi wall at Slhanay East, Squamish on Feb 20. I assume this is Two Minutes For Hooking?

Approach – As for New Delhi crag: park ~2.5 km along Mamquam FSR, start up Big Drop Valley trail then after a few minutes take R branch (cairns) and follow up and right to base ~40 mins.

Pitch 1: ~WI3+ R (thin ice, protection was stubby, spectre and medium nut).
Pitch 2: WI4 (generally fatter ice, except thinner near top)
Pitch 3: ~WI4- (some cool mushroom hooking up ramp, then ice blob traverse up to cave belay)
Pitch 4: WI4+ (steeper column up to trees)

P3 and P4 could be combined with a few more screws!

Two raps down from trees (70m ropes)

Excellent, varied route. Totally dry. Judging by the rap tat, it has had at least one prior ascent this year. Enjoy 🙂

westcoastice.com   archive

3-3 Pillar 1 w5 2 laps. Left of Zenith,  rated a “4” in the book!

3-2 Eating Razorblades 3p W5+ w/lane, zac in easier shape than last year, still burly

3-3 Pillar 1 w5 2 laps burly route left of Zenith, rated a “4” in the book!

3-9 lower Emerald+ Zenith w5+ 3p w/jenn lane. got scooped, yet finished off this route proper with my besties!

3-10 Agent O and More Banks Ice 3p to w5+ Holy crap what an amazing ice season!

 

Colorado Ice Trip ’19

Feb 8-2019: 2 feet of snow is heading to the Seattle area, and Canmore is -20 for weeks.

Thanks to Lane for figuring out the best place to go during the “Seattle Snowpacolypse”. The “Master of the Air-miles” set us up for my first ice trip, heading to Colorado taking advantage of the warmer temps and far better weather. We last minute planned it and hit some amazing and difficult routes in Southwestern Colorado! Great joy was found..

2/8-13/19 Colorado Ice Trip 17p to M6-WI6 w/lane:

 2-8 Amphitheater Vail 3p to m5 W5+, including Rigid Designator, Cupcake, and 7th! So much fun!

 2-9 Redstone Slabs 3p WI5 Set the booter into this great climb. First pitch(right side) was fiesty and ended up in bushes! 2nd pitch kinda dangerous, 3rd is super good.

 2-10 Skylight 2p M4/5 WI4+ This is an ultra-high quality and unique route up steep chimney, similar to Urs Direct. Not everyday you get to ice climb in such a deep chimney!

 2-11 Bridalveil Falls 3p WI5+ THE Classic steep waterfall, and lived up to the hype. Picked out yet, 3-d, steep, and fun outing. Nice to climb with my old friend Steve, a partner of a few great adventures in the 90s, including the first ascent of the Black Spider wall of Mt. Hood.

2-12 Ouray Ice Park 4p to WI6 M6. Enjoyed it far more than I thought I would. I found unpicked lines and rad mixed in the “Vic” area just moving the rope a few meters over per climb.

2-13 Rifle Ice 2p to WI6. Wow, what a way to end a fantastic trip. Souls on Ice and the last curtain up the canyon were amazing, and steep af!

Outstanding adventure, thanks to Lane(climbing partner and rad photos), Jenn, Steve, Carly, D.Scott, and Walker. Huge props go to Ouray Ice Park for the amazing dream park!!

 

 

 

 

Canadian Ice/Mixed 11-’18

Early season can hold many great advantages:
Less snow to slog though, lower avalanche hazard, and roads remain open too.

Temperatures can be moderate as the cold may not have settled in yet, routes may come in that may not regularly form or be safe later.

(Maybe?)Slightly less crowds, yet stoke runs high on your first outing of the year!!

11-22-18 Dark Nature 2p WI5-M5 w/ Doug

11-23-18 Whiteman/Redman 4p to WI6-M5+

11-24-18 Candlestick Maker 2p WI5

11-25-18 Urs Hole Direct 4p WI5

These were the things we took full advantage of when we came up to Canada for the 4 day weekend of Thanksgiving this year, and what a pay-off! We saw pictures ahead of time on face book of Dark Nature, an obscure mixed route at Lake Louis. It looked steep and mostly ice. People were raving about it. It figured to be crowded, but since we pulled in at 1pm, the other parties were just getting down when we arrived.

Whiteman/Redman was fantastic again, Doug hadn’t been in there before, and didn’t have to walk the road approach like I had to the previous times. I got to lead the first pitch of Redman after backing off  2 years prior.

Doug hadn’t been to the Ghost River either, and wanted to badly. So after consulting with the Colonel, we hit Candlestick Maker, another route I hadn’t  been to as well. It was an awesome experience, except for the welt I put on my forehead.

I can’t say enough about how cool Urs Hole is as an experience for the first time. More of a mounatineering/spelunking adventure than an ice climb, suffice to say it should blow your mind. What a great trip, thanks to Doug, Jenn, and my family as I did this in the midst of the passing of my Dad. I did do the memorial just last weekend though and it went very well. Thanks Dad, for a wonderful upbringing, I will think of you often.

 

 

 

Goodbye Dad

 

Our dear friend, and family member is gone.

William St. Clair Wallace
February 22 1936- November 10 2018

 

A life-long devoted family man, Seventh-day Adventist, Veteran, Scotsman, and so much more, Bill was taken home on a clear fall day, in the presence of his loving family.

His life was a beautiful statement to our short time here on earth.

Diagnosed with a rare form of cancer in October, he fought a brief, fierce battle against the odds. Attacking his lungs and spine, he never got the chance to fight with effective treatment.

Bill was born in Hood River, Oregon in 1936. His parent Floyd and Eda provided a solid upbringing with his younger sister Dolores. He entered and served in the US Army and served in Germany for two years.

 

During his time in the service, he adopted the first of his two children Greg, Later, back in the states, DeNeice followed as his second child. A few years later he met Ada and became a devoted father of two more children: Angelia and myself (Wayne). Ada and William were married for almost 49 years. Extended family includes eight grandchildren and six great grandchildren.

My memories are filled with regular weekend outings to the coast, Gorge, Holidays, and many great vacations. Often we would just jump in in the car, not knowing the destination. I will also remember his work ethic, friendly demeanor, and high standards. Ours wasn’t always a perfect co-existence, but he was the anchor for our journey in both good, and times of trouble.

Image

Beyond his immediate family Bill touched many lives in his many years as head deacon at his place of worship, Commander of NW Scotsguard, his workplace, and his service to the community center. The family requests, in leu of flowers or donations , contributions be made to Rockwood Seventh-Day Adventist “Door Replacement Fund”.

Memorial service to be held 12-2-2018 , at the Rockwwod SDA Church 2pm. Reception to follow.

    

    

Woman of Mountain Dreams – Red Rocks ’18

DSC01169

Ironically, she is probably dreaming of the city at this point.

This is a story of a great long weekend trip to Red Rocks that ended in me getting beat up by an amazing route!!!

10-12 Willow Springs 5p to 10c: Nadias 9, ragged edges 8, Chicken Eruptus 10b, Left Out 10c/d, black track 9

10-13 Frogland 5.8 6p w Jenn, Eileen, John

10-14 Woman of Mt Dreams, Mt Wilson V-5.11a/b 17p w/Jenn

Right out of the gate, I found the most sandbagged 5.9 for my sweetie and our 2 other friends. Nadias 9 is a consensus 5.10 on Mt Project and a stiff one at that, we elected to pass on p2.

Ragged Edges, Chicken Eruptus, Left Out, and Black Track rounded out this amazing “warm up day”!

Frogland, Glad to have gone early to avoid crowds, fun route and glad we took it “easy” this day because we stuck with our plan of going big the next!

The Dream! (of Mountain Woman), is just that, if huge and amazing routes are your thing. From my very first trip to RR (1997), I had picked out this route as the biggest, proudest  line in the whole area. Was it going to be quality though? Mixed reviews on mt project left me pessimistic.

For 12 straight hours, it greatly exceed my expectations! It was more sustained, steep, and quality than I had imagined. I did spend extra energy being cold, and nervous. The route comes at you and never lets up. Once a ways up it, you must fight your way out of it. Good luck getting to the top before dark. We had gps in case we didn’t, but we got all the way to the creek at dark. Still a long way to go finishing up the 20 hour effort. I was so worked and tired that I slipped between 2 boulders and messed up 3 fingers on my left hand. Though beat and bloody, I felt so lucky to be with a gal that plans trips like this, and has the trust and gusto to get to the top of some of the most amazing climbs I have done. It was our 4th grade V together!! One of my all time favorite climbs to boot.

Eric and Lucie report 2008

Dow report summit post 2013

Riley Rice report

Laurel Arndt has the better description on the Mt project comments. The comments about seriousness are legit, the reports about looseness, not so much. I think the route is getting cleaned up.